I do not want it to require much extra work, if any at all. I've got a 29 gal. aquarium with gravel as the substrate. The lighting is standard aquarium, 20 watts. I'd prefer not to have to add things like fertilizer but if that's the one thing I have to do, fine. The water is kept at high 60s to low 70s.. room temp. The actual water level(not including the gravel..) is 12 inches, so obviously something smaller than that, unless it's fine to "gather" at the surface. My filter is not on 24/7(I keep frogs, not fish) and there is no other air supply.. But if I have to keep filter on that is fine. Are there any plants that meet that criteria? I'd rather not get a fake plant, but if I have to.. lol
What kind of aquarium plant should I get?
As posted above, that's not much lighting. There are a few plants that could do well though.
Have a look at this link. Loads of plants that do well in low light. Some of them NEED low lighting. http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list...
The plants will need a little fertilizer every now and again. I tend to add it only if I notice a lack of normal growth.
ADDED: The thing that holds the bulb HAS to be the same watt as the bulb. So if you get a brighter bulb, you'd need to replace the fitting too.
Reply:sorry but i would say go with fake changes in tank can also kill plants, plant's don't maintain there self just cuz they are in water . that's my feeling, but i did real plants and i maintained them more than my fish someday's
Reply:I have no fancy lighting in my 29 gallon tank... No Co2 system... No special dirt or anything.. Just small gravel and my plants do well. I do keep my light on for about 13 hours a day though. The only thing I added to my tank recently that actually made my plants grow a little faster was an air bubble volcano. The bubbles are so tiny that it distributes oxygen through out the tank now. I also have a bubble wand on the other end of my tank. I prune my plants about every 5-6 weeks.. And I do a 25% water change once a week..
I have Wysteria in my tank and it does very well.. Have some others, but I'm not sure what they are called... It's all the common stuff you can get at pet stores.
The only thing I suggest is... If your tank is new, you don't have enough "yuck" in the tank for them. Make sure the tank is at least 4-5 months old before adding live plants.
Reply:You have very low light. I think you should go with Java fern. There are a couple different varieties, some are harder to find than others.
Java fern grows very slowly but is super easy to care for. It shouldn't be planted in the substrate or the roots will rot. What you do is tie it down to pebbles or driftwood. You can get some river rock to tie it to which isn't expensive.
EDIT: The more wattage you have over your tank the more work you'll have to do. Right now you have a low tech tank.
You may be able to just get a new bulb and put it in the hood you already have.
If you get two watts per gallon over your tank it'll be a medium tech tank. You won't need CO2 injection but you may need some ferts. You'll be able to have a lot more plants. If you avoid plants that are heavy root feeders like crypts, you should only need to add carbon in liquid form by adding Seachem's Flourish Excel.
When/if you upgrade your lighting you'll probably have an algae bloom. If you decide to upgrade, buy as many plants as you can when you're actually going to put the new bulb in, and start dosing with Flourish Excel at the same time too. You want to do this to balance light and carbon and nitrates so you won't get algae.
It sounds more complicated than it actually is.
Reply:You don't even have enough light for even a low light tank set up. I would advise you to upgrade your lights to at least 30 watts. When you get that sorted you can proceed to get plants that require low light, such as Anubias, Java fern, java moss etc. Other plants like anacharis do well in low light and don't require much fertz or CO2. In fact, a low light tank (1-2 watts per gallon) doesn't require extra CO2. Check out this blog for more useful info on low light tanks:
http://lowlightlowtechplanted.blogspot.c...
Also there is this good site that provides you a list of plants based on light requirements and overall easiness.
http://www.plantgeek.net/
augmon
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
Why do rocks come to the surface?
I planted a small garden last year, and removed all of the rocks in the first 8 inches down. It took some time. This year...I find more...lots more. Anyone know why?
Why do rocks come to the surface?
Frost upheaval or, as Ozark farmers say - "rock heaving " - can be as common as the growth of weeds each spring. It’s a natural upward movement of rocks from lower soil depth. The process of freezing and thawing of soil provides the hydraulic force which lies at the bottom of this phenomenon.
Why do rocks come to the surface?
Frost upheaval or, as Ozark farmers say - "rock heaving " - can be as common as the growth of weeds each spring. It’s a natural upward movement of rocks from lower soil depth. The process of freezing and thawing of soil provides the hydraulic force which lies at the bottom of this phenomenon.
Lucky bamboo? How to change water?
I got a lucky bamboo plant in a 15oz pot yesterday for a gift.
I looked up the plant and what I found was that you're supposed to change the water every few days. How do you change the water when the gravel is glued to and around the plant and the saucer is glued at the bottom of the pot?
How often should you water it? I heard that you should only water it about 1 inch water(which is 3/4 cup)
Do you need to water it everyday?
Lucky bamboo? How to change water?
ive had my bamboo for over a year now and ive never changed the water. the water doesnt look green or bad in anyway so i dont think you have to worry about it if you cant change the water
Reply:Please change water if/when it is smelly, otherwise just add some river stones for nutrition and add filtered water at room temp. When changing water it is helpful to use strainer with the small holes or a mesh stainer. I hope it helps.
Reply:I watered mine and kept it nice and it still died, i'm in a good way jealous of all you who kept yours alive.
Reply:poor the old water out put new water in you should do this often the plants roots could get algae and slimy if you don't. mine has never seemed adversely effected by the chlorine so I think tap would be fine
Reply:bamboos love water but not loads of it make sure the roots are covered in water, because if they dry out the bamboo will die if its a hot day check the water level if you can't see it water everyother day i never change the water on mine just keep adding when its needed and only feed about once a year as they don't need it and will grow to big to fast
Reply:I've had mine for sev. years %26amp; never change the water. I just add it straight from the sink when it gets low, maybe once a week. And during the spring thru fall I add 1 drop of liquid miracle grow food to the water every 2 weeks or so.
I looked up the plant and what I found was that you're supposed to change the water every few days. How do you change the water when the gravel is glued to and around the plant and the saucer is glued at the bottom of the pot?
How often should you water it? I heard that you should only water it about 1 inch water(which is 3/4 cup)
Do you need to water it everyday?
Lucky bamboo? How to change water?
ive had my bamboo for over a year now and ive never changed the water. the water doesnt look green or bad in anyway so i dont think you have to worry about it if you cant change the water
Reply:Please change water if/when it is smelly, otherwise just add some river stones for nutrition and add filtered water at room temp. When changing water it is helpful to use strainer with the small holes or a mesh stainer. I hope it helps.
Reply:I watered mine and kept it nice and it still died, i'm in a good way jealous of all you who kept yours alive.
Reply:poor the old water out put new water in you should do this often the plants roots could get algae and slimy if you don't. mine has never seemed adversely effected by the chlorine so I think tap would be fine
Reply:bamboos love water but not loads of it make sure the roots are covered in water, because if they dry out the bamboo will die if its a hot day check the water level if you can't see it water everyother day i never change the water on mine just keep adding when its needed and only feed about once a year as they don't need it and will grow to big to fast
Reply:I've had mine for sev. years %26amp; never change the water. I just add it straight from the sink when it gets low, maybe once a week. And during the spring thru fall I add 1 drop of liquid miracle grow food to the water every 2 weeks or so.
I have an onion that is growing a new plant?
A few weeks ago, I discovered that I had an onion at the bottom of my refrigerator, towards the back. The onion itself was actually starting to rot, but there was a new plant starting to grow up out of the onion. So, I decided to go ahead and put it in some water and give it sunlight and it has grown about 5 inches. Now, the top parts of the leaves are starting to dry and brown. Is the plant withering away? Is there anyway I can do to save it?... and... What exactly is it going to grow into anyway? A new onion, or what?
There is a plant growing up out of a totally rotten onion
I have an onion that is growing a new plant?
It will grow a new onion but it must be planted in soil, not water. It may already be too late but give it a try.
Bert
Reply:An onion is nothing more than a bulb that grows into more onions. Yours is too far gone however so best to just pitch it out.
There is a plant growing up out of a totally rotten onion
I have an onion that is growing a new plant?
It will grow a new onion but it must be planted in soil, not water. It may already be too late but give it a try.
Bert
Reply:An onion is nothing more than a bulb that grows into more onions. Yours is too far gone however so best to just pitch it out.
My plant is dying!?
I recently planted a flower seed in a clump of dirt near the tap in my garden, it was growing okay for a little while then it started shriveling up and turning yellow. it's stuck at a perpetual inch in height now and I don't know how to fix it. help?
My plant is dying!?
Turning yellow is a sign of either too much or too little water. I know, great lot of help that is, but you know about how much water the plant is getting. Under the tap, it may be too much.
Depending on the species, it may or may not need direct sunlight. If its shriveling, it may be too much sun if it prefers indirect, partial light, or shade. If you know the species, either look it up on the Internet, or go down to your local nursery and ask them.
NEVER fertilizer seedlings, unless you're sure you won't do harm. It can burn them as they are very susceptible now. Wait until the plant is at least 3 - 6 inches tall.
Reply:cover it in mircle whip
Reply:take it to a professional pruner im sure they can coat it down in some healthy vitamins for a reasonable price
Reply:cant help it unless you try moving it to a drier location and there isnt a guarantee that will help it...sounds like damping off which does result in death
Reply:There are any number of things that can cause what you describe . . .
too much/little moisture
not enuf consistent lite or warmth
bug infestation (under/and/or/above ground)
Reply:Try urinating on it....The vitamins in Your urin is great for making plants grow :-)
Reply:If you tell us what the plant is perhaps we can help you.
Reply:Turning yellow? Try giving it more sunlight!
Reply:give it some compost or plant food, make sure that it has plentty of sunlight and water
Reply:Could you give more info? What kind of flower is it? What kind of sun does that location get? Is the area it's in generally very wet or very dry? What is the temperature like right now where you live? Have you fed the plant since you planted it? I love %26amp; grow lots of plants. I also work in the turf care industry. But more information would be needed to determine your plants problem. It could be as simple as too much water or sun. Or it could be the season if you have climate changes. Try digging it up, since it is still small, and put it in a pot and give it special attention for a while. If it is very wet then try not to water so much. If you haven't fed it then try some plant food. Move it to different places in your yard to see if it likes it better somewhere else. Good luck to you and if you need anymore advice please feel free to email me.
Reply:that happened to my moms plant, im not much of a plant person but the plant was SO CUTE!! then it started wilting and shriveling then it just went BROWN...we didnt know wut to do because we KEPT it watered an in the window.
my step dad had the idea to cut off the brown leafs...then it just started GROWING LIKE KRAYZEE!!!it looked even better than b4!!
u should trim the dead parts off DEFINITELY!!
Reply:Ok stay calm. It either makes it or it doesn't.
God can take care of it just fine, so you find something else to occupy your mind. : )
Reply:are you over watering it? is it too dry? Does it get too much sun? Is it too shady? Sometimes it's best to start seeds in doors....what kind of flower is it? Also, Miracle Grow plant food helps!
Reply:Its probably getting too much water
Try potting it in a small pot with good soil and alittle super phosphate( good for root growth) the you need to find out if it is a shade loving or sun loving plant
There is more to growing plants than just sticking a seed in the ground and thinking its gonna grow by itself'
do some research on the type of flower you planted
Reply:Need more info,what kind of flower?
Reply:It could be getting cold.
There could be bugs.
What happened.
Reply:Catepillars are always a problem in fall along with aphid infestations in Arizona. Some of my current seedlings are getting hit hard with tiny catepillars and hosts of aphids and other plant loving bugs. You may have to bring it inside and give it some isolation from the rest of the world.
It is a hard life, being a seedling. . .
Reply:What type of flower seed. If its near the tap it may be it does not like to much water and you are drowning it. Dig it up and pot it. Take care with the winter months. It would help if I knew what it was.
Reply:plenty of sunlight and water, maybe try feeding it sugar water too, that should help
and if your really desperate the best way is to blend mushrooms with water and feed it that the mushrooms have heaps of nutrients in them
php hosting
My plant is dying!?
Turning yellow is a sign of either too much or too little water. I know, great lot of help that is, but you know about how much water the plant is getting. Under the tap, it may be too much.
Depending on the species, it may or may not need direct sunlight. If its shriveling, it may be too much sun if it prefers indirect, partial light, or shade. If you know the species, either look it up on the Internet, or go down to your local nursery and ask them.
NEVER fertilizer seedlings, unless you're sure you won't do harm. It can burn them as they are very susceptible now. Wait until the plant is at least 3 - 6 inches tall.
Reply:cover it in mircle whip
Reply:take it to a professional pruner im sure they can coat it down in some healthy vitamins for a reasonable price
Reply:cant help it unless you try moving it to a drier location and there isnt a guarantee that will help it...sounds like damping off which does result in death
Reply:There are any number of things that can cause what you describe . . .
too much/little moisture
not enuf consistent lite or warmth
bug infestation (under/and/or/above ground)
Reply:Try urinating on it....The vitamins in Your urin is great for making plants grow :-)
Reply:If you tell us what the plant is perhaps we can help you.
Reply:Turning yellow? Try giving it more sunlight!
Reply:give it some compost or plant food, make sure that it has plentty of sunlight and water
Reply:Could you give more info? What kind of flower is it? What kind of sun does that location get? Is the area it's in generally very wet or very dry? What is the temperature like right now where you live? Have you fed the plant since you planted it? I love %26amp; grow lots of plants. I also work in the turf care industry. But more information would be needed to determine your plants problem. It could be as simple as too much water or sun. Or it could be the season if you have climate changes. Try digging it up, since it is still small, and put it in a pot and give it special attention for a while. If it is very wet then try not to water so much. If you haven't fed it then try some plant food. Move it to different places in your yard to see if it likes it better somewhere else. Good luck to you and if you need anymore advice please feel free to email me.
Reply:that happened to my moms plant, im not much of a plant person but the plant was SO CUTE!! then it started wilting and shriveling then it just went BROWN...we didnt know wut to do because we KEPT it watered an in the window.
my step dad had the idea to cut off the brown leafs...then it just started GROWING LIKE KRAYZEE!!!it looked even better than b4!!
u should trim the dead parts off DEFINITELY!!
Reply:Ok stay calm. It either makes it or it doesn't.
God can take care of it just fine, so you find something else to occupy your mind. : )
Reply:are you over watering it? is it too dry? Does it get too much sun? Is it too shady? Sometimes it's best to start seeds in doors....what kind of flower is it? Also, Miracle Grow plant food helps!
Reply:Its probably getting too much water
Try potting it in a small pot with good soil and alittle super phosphate( good for root growth) the you need to find out if it is a shade loving or sun loving plant
There is more to growing plants than just sticking a seed in the ground and thinking its gonna grow by itself'
do some research on the type of flower you planted
Reply:Need more info,what kind of flower?
Reply:It could be getting cold.
There could be bugs.
What happened.
Reply:Catepillars are always a problem in fall along with aphid infestations in Arizona. Some of my current seedlings are getting hit hard with tiny catepillars and hosts of aphids and other plant loving bugs. You may have to bring it inside and give it some isolation from the rest of the world.
It is a hard life, being a seedling. . .
Reply:What type of flower seed. If its near the tap it may be it does not like to much water and you are drowning it. Dig it up and pot it. Take care with the winter months. It would help if I knew what it was.
Reply:plenty of sunlight and water, maybe try feeding it sugar water too, that should help
and if your really desperate the best way is to blend mushrooms with water and feed it that the mushrooms have heaps of nutrients in them
php hosting
Nice medium sized plant for small aquarium?
I have a 5 gallon aquarium with a 10 watt flourescent bulb.
Currently, I have some crypts (2) Java Fern (1) and a Hornwort (1) in there....The hornwort has managed to take over the tank in two weeks, so I want to take that out...Tried an Amazon Sword, and that croaked....
So I guess I would like a suggestion for an easy to grow plant that can withstand medium light, and 74 degree water....
Something about 8 to 10 inches would be great.....
Any Ideas?
Thanks a bunch
Here is a pic of the type of tank, if that helps....
http://www.aquariumguys.com/eclipse3.htm...
Nice medium sized plant for small aquarium?
You could have hydrilla plants. They are very easy to grow.
CC
Reply:There can be a lot of plants offered at your local fish store or on line sales. But they all have different requirements. Some can be quite easy to grow in your aquarium while others can be very difficult with out CO2 and high lighting. Unfortunately there are also several plants that are regularly sold in aquarium shops that are terrestrial plants and will never survive in the aquarium long term.
So what can you do to avoid the disappointment of filling your aquarium with plants that likely won't survive in your set up or even worse that no matter what you do will never live? You have to do your research first. It's no use wasting your money on plants that won't live. You want to get the plants that are most likely to thrive in your aquarium and the best way to do that is know what you're buying before you hand your money to the cashier.
Which plants are the easiest to grow? In part that will depend on your set up and the make up of the water you use in your aquarium, but I have made a list of some of the plants that usually do quite well even in moderate lighting and without too many extra needs.
One of my favorite plants that's easily found is the Amazon sword. The sword plants you purchase in the store has most likely been grown emersed, with the leaves out of the water. Those leaves will probably not last in your tank, so don't panic if you loose the original leaves as long as new ones are growing in. As the old leaves start dying off clip them off near the base of the stem so they don't start decomposing in your tank. Amazon swords can get quite large. They can easily totally fill a 10 or even 20 gallon tank.
Mellon swords are also regularly sold. These can also be grown fairly easily in your aquarium, though the leaves will usually take on a different shape once in your tank, depending on the species, water quality, and lighting.
Swords are known for liking nutrients through their roots. I've found that it will help them along by placing fertilizer tablets or sticks in the substrate near them. Be sure when planting your swords that you don't cover the crown of the plant, where the leaves come out, with gravel. Just cover the roots, it's better to leave a little too much out of the gravel than put too much under it. Sword plants can also have huge root systems that cover the entire bottom of the tank. If you later pull one out, and aren't careful, you may find most of the rest of the tank can come out with it.
Another plant in the same genus that I'll mention on its own is the pygmy chain sword. The great thing about the pygmy chain sword is it's a low growing plant. It will work great in small tanks and as a carpeting plant in any tank. They reproduce quickly and will soon look like a nice lawn in your aquarium. These are also usually grown emersed so the original leaves will die off and new ones will replace them in your aquarium.
Two other rather similar grass looking types of plants are also regularly available and are easy to grow, Vallisneria (val) and Sagitteria (sag). There are several species of both offered. The largest is jungle val. These can grow extremely long leaves, over 6 feet, and are really only suitable for large tall tanks. Most Vallisneria tend to get long leaves and you can trim them so they don't cover the top of your tank, otherwise they can block light from the other plants in your aquarium. Twisted val is an interesting plant. The leaves have the same shape as other Vallisneria plants but are twisted. I've found that these also don't tend to grow as tall as some of the other val and are more controlled in their growth. Most val can grow very well and can take over an aquarium. Vallisneria are true aquatic plants so you shouldn't experience heavy leaf loss when placing in your own aquarium.
Saggiteria usually has somewhat stiffer darker leaves but looks quite similar to val. The best way to tell them apart is the tips of the leaves. You have to look very closely but in Vallisneria the leaves are serrated on the top and in Saggiteria they are smooth. Saggiteria is often preferable to val in most tanks particularly smaller ones. It usually doesn't grow as tall as val and doesn't seem to reproduce as quickly, making it easier to maintain.
Java fern is another popular plant that's usually easy to grow. There are several very attractive varieties available. Don't plant your Java ferns. These plants do well growing on natural wood in the aquarium. It's easy to tie them on to a piece of aquarium driftwood with dark cotton sewing thread. Your Java ferns will eventually attach to the wood itself and the cotton thread will rot away.
Water sprite is another fern for the aquarium. It can be planted in the substrate or left to float with the roots trailing below. These are very attractive plants with bright green leaves. There are 2 species of water sprite most often encountered in the hobby, though others are sometimes seen. The 2 most commonly found are Ceratopteris thalictroides and C. cornuta. They are both lovely plants and differ in their leaf shape. Water sprite has an interesting trait in that baby plants form on the older leaves of the adult plant. They can easily cover the top of your tank so you will have to thin them regularly.
Hornwort is a floating plant that is also a truly aquatic plant. Hornwort is rather interesting in that it never develops roots. This also means that it's useless to plant it in the gravel. Any part of the plant you put under the gravel will just die. Hornwort can grow quickly and will keep light from other plants below it. Another interesting thing about hornwort is that a small piece of the stem will grow into another plant, so it's easy to trim to the amount you need, though you may have to do it quite frequently.
There are several very nice Cryptocoryne species and cultivars that are easy to grow, and will also do well in both low and high lighting. You can usually find these in the potted plants at your local fish store. If they have a name tag they usually are listed as C. wendtii, walkeri or lutea, and come in green red and bronze. These are plants that may have been grown emersed so don't panic if you have leaf loss at first as long as long as new leaves are forming. Once established crypts can grow a bit more slowly than some of the other aquarium plants but they will eventually spread and if not thinned periodically, can eventually take over the whole tank.
Stemmed plants are often a bit harder to grow than some of the other plants available for the aquarium but there are a few that will generally grow easily even in moderate lighting. These plants include, Rotala rotundifolia, Bacopa monneiri, and Ludwigia repens.
Rotala has small leaves that can take on a red tint as they get more light. Often you'll see the bottom of the stems have green leaves but as they near the top of your tank they start getting more red in the color. If you let these plants grow to the surface of your tank they take on a bit different look. The leaves will grow on either side of the stem facing up. Roots will also form on these floating sections of stem.
Bacopa is a bright green plant with rubbery like leaves. It can grow rapidly and tends to like to grow up out of the tank if allowed. It should be trimmed regularly if you don't want it growing out of your tank. If you do have an open tank it can be quite attractive if left to grow out. The stems will start to drape down the sides of the tank. I had some I let go in my fish room once that started on the upper row of tanks and ended up growing into the tanks on the two shelves below it and down to the floor.
Ludwigia can sometimes be a bit more difficult but still is usually pretty easy going. It's a very attractive plant. The leaves can be dark green on top but the undersides take on a dark red color that can even be almost purple. Like Rotala if left to grow to the top of the tank the leaves will turn to the light and the upper stems will grow roots.
Mosses are some of my very favorite aquarium plants. They are beautiful and grow easily in low to high lighting. There are several different mosses available for the aquarium. The most common is Java moss but Christmas tree moss and occasionally Fontinalis can be found too. Mosses are pretty popular right now and there are even some new ones from the Orient that are sometimes becoming available. Some of these may be more difficult to grow.
Mosses are wonderful on branches or wood in the aquarium and can be attached with thread like the Java ferns. They also look great as ground covers or between your plants. I find they often will fill in all the empty spaces between stemmed plants in the tank and look like a mound of moss with the plants peeking out the top. If you don't trim them back eventually they can take over the whole aquarium, so it's good to trim your mosses occasionally. You can cut or pull out the parts you want removed. Mosses also should not be planted under the gravel.
My favorite of the more common mosses is Christmas tree. It seems to grab on to wood and gravel better, stays down better and has a more attractive appearance. It's also easier to control. Java moss is thinner and tends to grow up more and faster. It's just quite as attractive in my opinion. Fontinalis is a prettier moss than the Java but harder to find and a bit harder to grow.
Remember that each plant may react differently to your aquarium. The plants listed above are those that are often available and that through my own experience and talking with others over the years seem to be the most likely to grow easily and well. Your experiences may differ but these plants should give you a good chance for success.
Currently, I have some crypts (2) Java Fern (1) and a Hornwort (1) in there....The hornwort has managed to take over the tank in two weeks, so I want to take that out...Tried an Amazon Sword, and that croaked....
So I guess I would like a suggestion for an easy to grow plant that can withstand medium light, and 74 degree water....
Something about 8 to 10 inches would be great.....
Any Ideas?
Thanks a bunch
Here is a pic of the type of tank, if that helps....
http://www.aquariumguys.com/eclipse3.htm...
Nice medium sized plant for small aquarium?
You could have hydrilla plants. They are very easy to grow.
CC
Reply:There can be a lot of plants offered at your local fish store or on line sales. But they all have different requirements. Some can be quite easy to grow in your aquarium while others can be very difficult with out CO2 and high lighting. Unfortunately there are also several plants that are regularly sold in aquarium shops that are terrestrial plants and will never survive in the aquarium long term.
So what can you do to avoid the disappointment of filling your aquarium with plants that likely won't survive in your set up or even worse that no matter what you do will never live? You have to do your research first. It's no use wasting your money on plants that won't live. You want to get the plants that are most likely to thrive in your aquarium and the best way to do that is know what you're buying before you hand your money to the cashier.
Which plants are the easiest to grow? In part that will depend on your set up and the make up of the water you use in your aquarium, but I have made a list of some of the plants that usually do quite well even in moderate lighting and without too many extra needs.
One of my favorite plants that's easily found is the Amazon sword. The sword plants you purchase in the store has most likely been grown emersed, with the leaves out of the water. Those leaves will probably not last in your tank, so don't panic if you loose the original leaves as long as new ones are growing in. As the old leaves start dying off clip them off near the base of the stem so they don't start decomposing in your tank. Amazon swords can get quite large. They can easily totally fill a 10 or even 20 gallon tank.
Mellon swords are also regularly sold. These can also be grown fairly easily in your aquarium, though the leaves will usually take on a different shape once in your tank, depending on the species, water quality, and lighting.
Swords are known for liking nutrients through their roots. I've found that it will help them along by placing fertilizer tablets or sticks in the substrate near them. Be sure when planting your swords that you don't cover the crown of the plant, where the leaves come out, with gravel. Just cover the roots, it's better to leave a little too much out of the gravel than put too much under it. Sword plants can also have huge root systems that cover the entire bottom of the tank. If you later pull one out, and aren't careful, you may find most of the rest of the tank can come out with it.
Another plant in the same genus that I'll mention on its own is the pygmy chain sword. The great thing about the pygmy chain sword is it's a low growing plant. It will work great in small tanks and as a carpeting plant in any tank. They reproduce quickly and will soon look like a nice lawn in your aquarium. These are also usually grown emersed so the original leaves will die off and new ones will replace them in your aquarium.
Two other rather similar grass looking types of plants are also regularly available and are easy to grow, Vallisneria (val) and Sagitteria (sag). There are several species of both offered. The largest is jungle val. These can grow extremely long leaves, over 6 feet, and are really only suitable for large tall tanks. Most Vallisneria tend to get long leaves and you can trim them so they don't cover the top of your tank, otherwise they can block light from the other plants in your aquarium. Twisted val is an interesting plant. The leaves have the same shape as other Vallisneria plants but are twisted. I've found that these also don't tend to grow as tall as some of the other val and are more controlled in their growth. Most val can grow very well and can take over an aquarium. Vallisneria are true aquatic plants so you shouldn't experience heavy leaf loss when placing in your own aquarium.
Saggiteria usually has somewhat stiffer darker leaves but looks quite similar to val. The best way to tell them apart is the tips of the leaves. You have to look very closely but in Vallisneria the leaves are serrated on the top and in Saggiteria they are smooth. Saggiteria is often preferable to val in most tanks particularly smaller ones. It usually doesn't grow as tall as val and doesn't seem to reproduce as quickly, making it easier to maintain.
Java fern is another popular plant that's usually easy to grow. There are several very attractive varieties available. Don't plant your Java ferns. These plants do well growing on natural wood in the aquarium. It's easy to tie them on to a piece of aquarium driftwood with dark cotton sewing thread. Your Java ferns will eventually attach to the wood itself and the cotton thread will rot away.
Water sprite is another fern for the aquarium. It can be planted in the substrate or left to float with the roots trailing below. These are very attractive plants with bright green leaves. There are 2 species of water sprite most often encountered in the hobby, though others are sometimes seen. The 2 most commonly found are Ceratopteris thalictroides and C. cornuta. They are both lovely plants and differ in their leaf shape. Water sprite has an interesting trait in that baby plants form on the older leaves of the adult plant. They can easily cover the top of your tank so you will have to thin them regularly.
Hornwort is a floating plant that is also a truly aquatic plant. Hornwort is rather interesting in that it never develops roots. This also means that it's useless to plant it in the gravel. Any part of the plant you put under the gravel will just die. Hornwort can grow quickly and will keep light from other plants below it. Another interesting thing about hornwort is that a small piece of the stem will grow into another plant, so it's easy to trim to the amount you need, though you may have to do it quite frequently.
There are several very nice Cryptocoryne species and cultivars that are easy to grow, and will also do well in both low and high lighting. You can usually find these in the potted plants at your local fish store. If they have a name tag they usually are listed as C. wendtii, walkeri or lutea, and come in green red and bronze. These are plants that may have been grown emersed so don't panic if you have leaf loss at first as long as long as new leaves are forming. Once established crypts can grow a bit more slowly than some of the other aquarium plants but they will eventually spread and if not thinned periodically, can eventually take over the whole tank.
Stemmed plants are often a bit harder to grow than some of the other plants available for the aquarium but there are a few that will generally grow easily even in moderate lighting. These plants include, Rotala rotundifolia, Bacopa monneiri, and Ludwigia repens.
Rotala has small leaves that can take on a red tint as they get more light. Often you'll see the bottom of the stems have green leaves but as they near the top of your tank they start getting more red in the color. If you let these plants grow to the surface of your tank they take on a bit different look. The leaves will grow on either side of the stem facing up. Roots will also form on these floating sections of stem.
Bacopa is a bright green plant with rubbery like leaves. It can grow rapidly and tends to like to grow up out of the tank if allowed. It should be trimmed regularly if you don't want it growing out of your tank. If you do have an open tank it can be quite attractive if left to grow out. The stems will start to drape down the sides of the tank. I had some I let go in my fish room once that started on the upper row of tanks and ended up growing into the tanks on the two shelves below it and down to the floor.
Ludwigia can sometimes be a bit more difficult but still is usually pretty easy going. It's a very attractive plant. The leaves can be dark green on top but the undersides take on a dark red color that can even be almost purple. Like Rotala if left to grow to the top of the tank the leaves will turn to the light and the upper stems will grow roots.
Mosses are some of my very favorite aquarium plants. They are beautiful and grow easily in low to high lighting. There are several different mosses available for the aquarium. The most common is Java moss but Christmas tree moss and occasionally Fontinalis can be found too. Mosses are pretty popular right now and there are even some new ones from the Orient that are sometimes becoming available. Some of these may be more difficult to grow.
Mosses are wonderful on branches or wood in the aquarium and can be attached with thread like the Java ferns. They also look great as ground covers or between your plants. I find they often will fill in all the empty spaces between stemmed plants in the tank and look like a mound of moss with the plants peeking out the top. If you don't trim them back eventually they can take over the whole aquarium, so it's good to trim your mosses occasionally. You can cut or pull out the parts you want removed. Mosses also should not be planted under the gravel.
My favorite of the more common mosses is Christmas tree. It seems to grab on to wood and gravel better, stays down better and has a more attractive appearance. It's also easier to control. Java moss is thinner and tends to grow up more and faster. It's just quite as attractive in my opinion. Fontinalis is a prettier moss than the Java but harder to find and a bit harder to grow.
Remember that each plant may react differently to your aquarium. The plants listed above are those that are often available and that through my own experience and talking with others over the years seem to be the most likely to grow easily and well. Your experiences may differ but these plants should give you a good chance for success.
I have a 2.5 gallon tank. How many inches of sand should I put at the bottom to grow some Vallisneria Torti?
Vallisneria tortifolia or vallisneria corkscrew, there is a lot of diff names for the plant.
I have a 2.5 gallon tank. How many inches of sand should I put at the bottom to grow some Vallisneria Torti?
that's a tiny tank...maybe an inch
I have a 2.5 gallon tank. How many inches of sand should I put at the bottom to grow some Vallisneria Torti?
that's a tiny tank...maybe an inch
I have a 22 inch catfish in a 10 gallon aquarium....?
i have a 22 inch catfish in a 10 gallon aquarium....
here's a picture:
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n309/...
do you think i have enough room for a dog fish?
lol, just kidding folks.
my real question IS about stocking, but nothing to do with cats.
i'm putting together a very heavily planted 10 gallon tank and i was intending on keeping two powder blue dwarf gouramis because i heard they prefer to be kept in pairs. problem is i can't find females anywhere. does anyone know where i can find a quality male/female pair (price is not a problem)? or should i not even bother and just get two males? or in absence of a female would he be happier alone?
also looking for ideas for other fish i'll keep; i was thinking about four guppies OR sparkling gouramis (all male). i like the look of the lyre tail guppies sold where i work, but the gouramis have the added benefit of being labyrinth fish which is good for a planted tank since the oxygen levels will dip at night.
I have a 22 inch catfish in a 10 gallon aquarium....?
I was ready to really give you what for! a 22" catfish in a 24" tank!! what are you thinking!!! LOL what a cutie!
I've gotten female dwarf gouramis from aquabid.com. I think you can also get them here:
http://www.aquariumfish.net/catalog_page...
Reply:the grouami is related to the betta fish, upon adult hood they can become VERY agressive, the males in the tanks at your work are fine because ther elal still young, however 2 adult mles tend to be highly agressive, gouramie also tend to be fin nippers so guppy are not a good plan.
a good grouping woould be a single male gourami, with a couple cory cats or ottos (both are good algea/scavengers for planted tanks, plecos get too big and eat plants!)
and then a school of 6 small "dither fish" zebra danios are cool and now come in some cool colours and patterns, the blue spotted "leopard" danios are very pretty and the zebras have now been bred in bright colours and called glowfish. (this is anatural not injected colouration change so wont fade like straberry/blueberry tetras do...)
cherry barbs are nice PEACEFULL barbs that would also do well, or cardinal tetras (neons work too but tend to be too fragile...
unfortunatly a 10 gal kind of limits you, a blue goruamie can easily reach 3-5 inches, as long as your filtration is good you can get away with overstocking a little with a nice 5-6 fish school and some ceanup crew, but i wouldnt do multiple gouramies or more than 1 "top level" fish in a 10 gal.
Reply:Love the picture, that's hilarious!
Reply:id go with 1 male dwarf gorami and the guppies.
Reply:Lol, cutest picture ever - what an adorable cat!
In regards to your fish problem:
I realise you're not in the UK (I think..) but I found some on eBay.
(http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Blue-Dwarf-Gourami... )
Try fish stocking websites, and also talk to your LFS and ask when they get fish deliveries. Ring up on these days and ask if they have any in. There should be some in larger shops, they are sometimes hard to spot.
I would say if the tank is heavily planted two males would be fine, but speak to your LFS before and say 'If I have problems, could I swap one for a female?' They're usually okay with it.
I'd go for two gouramis rather than guppies in the tank - just for personal choice to be honest!
Good luck :)
Reply:males will fight all the time so maybe websites that sells fish can give you the female you need.
Reply:ha! you tricked me into looking at your question! i was expecting fireworks here. anyway, you want a female dwarf gourami but you dont want female sparkling gouramis? what give, the sparkling gourami babies will be so tiny you couldnt see them. mine are around two weeks now and they're about the size of a newborn molly just to give you an idea. you wont even know they're there so you're not gonna be facing a population explosion unless you want one. i almost threw mine out. good thing i siphon into a pail and doublecheck before throwing out the water, i never even saw them spawn. now, if you want a female powder blue dwarf gourami. i've never seen one. they just dont sell them. here in manila there's this place with probably 40odd fishstores side by side and when i have time i go into each and everyone to try and find female powderblues or flame reds but so far, no luck.. i was able to find some females of the original dwarf gourami. maybe, thats what you should do, because boy gouramis always look better when they're trying to impress the girls..
here's a picture:
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n309/...
do you think i have enough room for a dog fish?
lol, just kidding folks.
my real question IS about stocking, but nothing to do with cats.
i'm putting together a very heavily planted 10 gallon tank and i was intending on keeping two powder blue dwarf gouramis because i heard they prefer to be kept in pairs. problem is i can't find females anywhere. does anyone know where i can find a quality male/female pair (price is not a problem)? or should i not even bother and just get two males? or in absence of a female would he be happier alone?
also looking for ideas for other fish i'll keep; i was thinking about four guppies OR sparkling gouramis (all male). i like the look of the lyre tail guppies sold where i work, but the gouramis have the added benefit of being labyrinth fish which is good for a planted tank since the oxygen levels will dip at night.
I have a 22 inch catfish in a 10 gallon aquarium....?
I was ready to really give you what for! a 22" catfish in a 24" tank!! what are you thinking!!! LOL what a cutie!
I've gotten female dwarf gouramis from aquabid.com. I think you can also get them here:
http://www.aquariumfish.net/catalog_page...
Reply:the grouami is related to the betta fish, upon adult hood they can become VERY agressive, the males in the tanks at your work are fine because ther elal still young, however 2 adult mles tend to be highly agressive, gouramie also tend to be fin nippers so guppy are not a good plan.
a good grouping woould be a single male gourami, with a couple cory cats or ottos (both are good algea/scavengers for planted tanks, plecos get too big and eat plants!)
and then a school of 6 small "dither fish" zebra danios are cool and now come in some cool colours and patterns, the blue spotted "leopard" danios are very pretty and the zebras have now been bred in bright colours and called glowfish. (this is anatural not injected colouration change so wont fade like straberry/blueberry tetras do...)
cherry barbs are nice PEACEFULL barbs that would also do well, or cardinal tetras (neons work too but tend to be too fragile...
unfortunatly a 10 gal kind of limits you, a blue goruamie can easily reach 3-5 inches, as long as your filtration is good you can get away with overstocking a little with a nice 5-6 fish school and some ceanup crew, but i wouldnt do multiple gouramies or more than 1 "top level" fish in a 10 gal.
Reply:Love the picture, that's hilarious!
Reply:id go with 1 male dwarf gorami and the guppies.
Reply:Lol, cutest picture ever - what an adorable cat!
In regards to your fish problem:
I realise you're not in the UK (I think..) but I found some on eBay.
(http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Blue-Dwarf-Gourami... )
Try fish stocking websites, and also talk to your LFS and ask when they get fish deliveries. Ring up on these days and ask if they have any in. There should be some in larger shops, they are sometimes hard to spot.
I would say if the tank is heavily planted two males would be fine, but speak to your LFS before and say 'If I have problems, could I swap one for a female?' They're usually okay with it.
I'd go for two gouramis rather than guppies in the tank - just for personal choice to be honest!
Good luck :)
Reply:males will fight all the time so maybe websites that sells fish can give you the female you need.
Reply:ha! you tricked me into looking at your question! i was expecting fireworks here. anyway, you want a female dwarf gourami but you dont want female sparkling gouramis? what give, the sparkling gourami babies will be so tiny you couldnt see them. mine are around two weeks now and they're about the size of a newborn molly just to give you an idea. you wont even know they're there so you're not gonna be facing a population explosion unless you want one. i almost threw mine out. good thing i siphon into a pail and doublecheck before throwing out the water, i never even saw them spawn. now, if you want a female powder blue dwarf gourami. i've never seen one. they just dont sell them. here in manila there's this place with probably 40odd fishstores side by side and when i have time i go into each and everyone to try and find female powderblues or flame reds but so far, no luck.. i was able to find some females of the original dwarf gourami. maybe, thats what you should do, because boy gouramis always look better when they're trying to impress the girls..
What type of plant is this?
i want to find out some information about my plant that i recently bought, but i can't find anything on the internet about it. It has 3 rods and on each rod there is 2 leaves and on each of them 2 more leaves will come out. It isn't that big mabey 9 or 10 inches. i think it might be called a madagascar beauty but im not sure and theres nothing on the internet about it. Do you know what type of plant this is? If you want to see a picture of it i can send it to you on your e-mail.
What type of plant is this?
? rods? is it a tree -like a palm?--i have a ponytail palm n they look like that when their a baby. its 1 short branch n 4 growing out of it. its 7 foot tall now n the 4 branches r curling.
arenas
What type of plant is this?
? rods? is it a tree -like a palm?--i have a ponytail palm n they look like that when their a baby. its 1 short branch n 4 growing out of it. its 7 foot tall now n the 4 branches r curling.
arenas
Why do I keep getting shocked?
I keep getting shocked by EVERYTHIGN I touch! I even brushed my finger along a house plant and it shocked me! My finger came about 3 inches away from a metal desk and I saw a blue spark without even TOUCHING the metal!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I keep complaining about this around the office and nobody seems to be having the same problem as I do... what's going on?
Why do I keep getting shocked?
Pick your feet up when you walk. If you shuffle your feet you build static electricity. Also wear cotton clothes. If you wear knit sweaters and things like that, they tend to build static too. It would help if they put humidifiers in your office.
Reply:Dry air combined with nylon fabrics tend to produce a lot more static electricity. Try touching appliances that are plugged into a grounded outlet. You may be able to reduce the amount and severity of the shocks.
Reply:Your office has nylon carpets, and you shuffle when you walk. It's called static.
When I was a kid we would go to the movie theater (they had nylon carpets) and rub our feet along, then touch someone on the ear- very painful for a moment.
Reply:Hi,
Your body is more static sensitive. i mean your body temperature is higher than normal, even i had the same problem then i had to basically cool my body by drinking lots af water and having fruits like that. If the problem continues consult a physician.
Thanks.
Reply:You just have this electric personality! That's good! Try putting some dryer sheets in your shoes!
Reply:Dry air in the house will also contribute to static electricity. If you get a humidifer it should help.
Reply:I've went through this before and was told it was because around an area of lower humidity. Apparently, the drier the air the more static electricity. Are you running a heater a lot ?
Reply:that just means that you have more electricity in you than those thing you are touching. dont where anything linen or nylon. dont rub your feet on the ground or carpet and dont rub you back on you chair. even if the floor is not fabric or like a rug you still have to pick up you feet. sometime i run my feet on the floor with my shoes on i can schock things.
Reply:Maybe its your shoes. They might attract more static electricity from the carpet than other shoes. And maybe you are wearing lots of metal... anyway, why is it bad to get shocked? You can walk up to someone and touch the back of their neck, make them jump a little... that would be really funny!
Reply:Maybe everything you touch is electrocuted.
Reply:The reason is because of static electricity. I have the same problem and did research on how to minimize (or avoid) static buildup...and this web link helped me A LOT!!!
http://www.wikihow.com/Get-out-of-a-Car-...
I hope this helps you out...
Why do I keep getting shocked?
Pick your feet up when you walk. If you shuffle your feet you build static electricity. Also wear cotton clothes. If you wear knit sweaters and things like that, they tend to build static too. It would help if they put humidifiers in your office.
Reply:Dry air combined with nylon fabrics tend to produce a lot more static electricity. Try touching appliances that are plugged into a grounded outlet. You may be able to reduce the amount and severity of the shocks.
Reply:Your office has nylon carpets, and you shuffle when you walk. It's called static.
When I was a kid we would go to the movie theater (they had nylon carpets) and rub our feet along, then touch someone on the ear- very painful for a moment.
Reply:Hi,
Your body is more static sensitive. i mean your body temperature is higher than normal, even i had the same problem then i had to basically cool my body by drinking lots af water and having fruits like that. If the problem continues consult a physician.
Thanks.
Reply:You just have this electric personality! That's good! Try putting some dryer sheets in your shoes!
Reply:Dry air in the house will also contribute to static electricity. If you get a humidifer it should help.
Reply:I've went through this before and was told it was because around an area of lower humidity. Apparently, the drier the air the more static electricity. Are you running a heater a lot ?
Reply:that just means that you have more electricity in you than those thing you are touching. dont where anything linen or nylon. dont rub your feet on the ground or carpet and dont rub you back on you chair. even if the floor is not fabric or like a rug you still have to pick up you feet. sometime i run my feet on the floor with my shoes on i can schock things.
Reply:Maybe its your shoes. They might attract more static electricity from the carpet than other shoes. And maybe you are wearing lots of metal... anyway, why is it bad to get shocked? You can walk up to someone and touch the back of their neck, make them jump a little... that would be really funny!
Reply:Maybe everything you touch is electrocuted.
Reply:The reason is because of static electricity. I have the same problem and did research on how to minimize (or avoid) static buildup...and this web link helped me A LOT!!!
http://www.wikihow.com/Get-out-of-a-Car-...
I hope this helps you out...
Any clues about a lawn grass that growns now more than, say, 2 inches and requires NO mowing?
I am currently looking for a new grass to plant in my lawn, but I want something that is environmentally safe (i.e., requires no mowing) and that is truly labor un-intensive. The areas in need of planting are ow- or no-traffic areas, so such damage need not be a consideration. I live in zone 7. Thanks.
Any clues about a lawn grass that growns now more than, say, 2 inches and requires NO mowing?
THERES SOMETHING CALLED ...CREEPING BENT.... CHECK WITH A MAJOR LANDSCAPING COMPANY IF THIS IS STILL BEING USED...IT GROWS TO ABOUT YOUR STATED LENGTH AND THEN BENDS WITH A TINY FLAT LEAF AT THE TOP. USED TO BE QUITE COMMON BUT HAVENT HEARD OF IT LATELY....
Reply:try fake grass thats' really all you can do if you don't want to maintain it
Reply:Zoyia grass is supposed to be a good one for that
Reply:http://www1.zoysiafarms.com/
If you’re tired of seeding, watering, fertilizing and working all season long to stay ahead of weeds and crabgrass, it’s time to consider zoysia. Once you’ve planted our zoysia grass in a new or existing lawn, you’ll be rewarded by a lawn that’s lush and low maintenance:
* Needs far less water than other grasses
* Thrives in blistering heat %26amp; survives the coldest winters
* Excellent for slopes, play areas and other tough conditions
* Reduces mowing to once a month or less
* Chokes out weeds and replaces other grasses
* Naturally resists insects
* Grows incredibly thick, like a soft carpet
Reply:fif you find this please let me know immediately this is a miracle
Reply:i found a grass that fit your need but i forgot where i saw it. anyways you might want to try asking you local lawn and garden specialist. also try this --http://www.seedland.com/ -- btw those people are on vacation atm but try lookin around or asking them when they return on sept 4 i believe. good luck
Reply:I would suggest centipede. Low growing, but will still need to be mowed occasionally
Reply:scissors eat it
Reply:astro-turf
green concrete
Reply:Scottish links fescue, but people tend to allow it to grow to 6-8"
There is a company that manufactures a "fake grass" out of recycled plastic grocery bags. from a distance it looks good. it is installed over a weed fabric, sand base and actually has the feel of walking on real grass.
Reply:also consider NOT using grass. many ground covers can be used and require less care and watering.
Any clues about a lawn grass that growns now more than, say, 2 inches and requires NO mowing?
THERES SOMETHING CALLED ...CREEPING BENT.... CHECK WITH A MAJOR LANDSCAPING COMPANY IF THIS IS STILL BEING USED...IT GROWS TO ABOUT YOUR STATED LENGTH AND THEN BENDS WITH A TINY FLAT LEAF AT THE TOP. USED TO BE QUITE COMMON BUT HAVENT HEARD OF IT LATELY....
Reply:try fake grass thats' really all you can do if you don't want to maintain it
Reply:Zoyia grass is supposed to be a good one for that
Reply:http://www1.zoysiafarms.com/
If you’re tired of seeding, watering, fertilizing and working all season long to stay ahead of weeds and crabgrass, it’s time to consider zoysia. Once you’ve planted our zoysia grass in a new or existing lawn, you’ll be rewarded by a lawn that’s lush and low maintenance:
* Needs far less water than other grasses
* Thrives in blistering heat %26amp; survives the coldest winters
* Excellent for slopes, play areas and other tough conditions
* Reduces mowing to once a month or less
* Chokes out weeds and replaces other grasses
* Naturally resists insects
* Grows incredibly thick, like a soft carpet
Reply:fif you find this please let me know immediately this is a miracle
Reply:i found a grass that fit your need but i forgot where i saw it. anyways you might want to try asking you local lawn and garden specialist. also try this --http://www.seedland.com/ -- btw those people are on vacation atm but try lookin around or asking them when they return on sept 4 i believe. good luck
Reply:I would suggest centipede. Low growing, but will still need to be mowed occasionally
Reply:scissors eat it
Reply:astro-turf
green concrete
Reply:Scottish links fescue, but people tend to allow it to grow to 6-8"
There is a company that manufactures a "fake grass" out of recycled plastic grocery bags. from a distance it looks good. it is installed over a weed fabric, sand base and actually has the feel of walking on real grass.
Reply:also consider NOT using grass. many ground covers can be used and require less care and watering.
Why does my plant turns brown even when I'm watering it regularly?
I have a tropical house plant with big leaves. The leaves keep turning brown and drying up one by one. I water it regularly daily with 2 cups of water each day and I fertilize it maybe every 3 weeks or so. The pot is about 14 inches and 10 inches tall. I want to know how I can stop the browning of the leaves.
Why does my plant turns brown even when I'm watering it regularly?
I don't know how much sun your plant is getting but believe it or not it might actually be too much sun. It's a common misconception that tropical plant=bright full sun. A lot of tropical plants that are sold on the market are "understory" type plants. That means that in their natural state they grow under other tropical plants and on the forest floor, they don't receive much or any direct sunlight. What you are describing sounds like leaf scorch or leaf burn from over exposure to sunlight. You may want to move your plant to a more protected area or somewhere with bright indirect sunlight. And make sure not to over water, only when the soil starts to become dry, and you may be fertilizing too often as well in an effort to save it. I Hope This Was Helpful to You and Your Plant!!!
Reply:It's probably not getting enough sun or it's getting too much. Research the type of plant you have and what conditions are best for growth. That should do it. I used to care for my mother's plants all of the time as a kid and it never failed. Plants grew alot when I moved them from sun to shade or vice versa when they'd turn brown.
Reply:You're water it too much. ALWAYS check the soil with your finger (I'm serious). It can be a little dry and still be o.k. I suggest you go to the store and buy Miracle-Gro to feed it. Also, try putting it outside for a few days. You'd be surprised how ALL plants need sunlight, even house plants. I had a houseplant do the same thing and I put it outside and it did so much better. I actually keep it outside now and I transplanted it into a bigger pot with rich new soil. It is beautiful and healthy now.
Good luck!
Reply:you may be watering it too much
Reply:You're probably watering it too much. some plants don't require too much water. And tropical plants would be one of them.
Reply:maybe too much water, not enough sun, and look for bugs.
Reply:You are over watering it. Don't water a plant until the soil feels dry. Otherwise you will actually drown it. And don't fertilize a sick plant. That will just make it worse.
Reply:too much try a little less and see if it makes a diffrence
Reply:I agree with the previous answers- you may be watering it too much. Make sure that the plants are in pots that can allow extra water to escape. Also, since they are tropical plants, they probably need a lot of light. Make sure that you are giving them enough sun.
Reply:your watering it to much!!
Reply:Definitely watering it too much, try once a week.
Reply:maybe u are watering too much and not enough sunlight
Why does my plant turns brown even when I'm watering it regularly?
I don't know how much sun your plant is getting but believe it or not it might actually be too much sun. It's a common misconception that tropical plant=bright full sun. A lot of tropical plants that are sold on the market are "understory" type plants. That means that in their natural state they grow under other tropical plants and on the forest floor, they don't receive much or any direct sunlight. What you are describing sounds like leaf scorch or leaf burn from over exposure to sunlight. You may want to move your plant to a more protected area or somewhere with bright indirect sunlight. And make sure not to over water, only when the soil starts to become dry, and you may be fertilizing too often as well in an effort to save it. I Hope This Was Helpful to You and Your Plant!!!
Reply:It's probably not getting enough sun or it's getting too much. Research the type of plant you have and what conditions are best for growth. That should do it. I used to care for my mother's plants all of the time as a kid and it never failed. Plants grew alot when I moved them from sun to shade or vice versa when they'd turn brown.
Reply:You're water it too much. ALWAYS check the soil with your finger (I'm serious). It can be a little dry and still be o.k. I suggest you go to the store and buy Miracle-Gro to feed it. Also, try putting it outside for a few days. You'd be surprised how ALL plants need sunlight, even house plants. I had a houseplant do the same thing and I put it outside and it did so much better. I actually keep it outside now and I transplanted it into a bigger pot with rich new soil. It is beautiful and healthy now.
Good luck!
Reply:you may be watering it too much
Reply:You're probably watering it too much. some plants don't require too much water. And tropical plants would be one of them.
Reply:maybe too much water, not enough sun, and look for bugs.
Reply:You are over watering it. Don't water a plant until the soil feels dry. Otherwise you will actually drown it. And don't fertilize a sick plant. That will just make it worse.
Reply:too much try a little less and see if it makes a diffrence
Reply:I agree with the previous answers- you may be watering it too much. Make sure that the plants are in pots that can allow extra water to escape. Also, since they are tropical plants, they probably need a lot of light. Make sure that you are giving them enough sun.
Reply:your watering it to much!!
Reply:Definitely watering it too much, try once a week.
Reply:maybe u are watering too much and not enough sunlight
How much of the plant is needed to grow an aloe plant?
We've had this big pot of aloe that's been growing for probably 10 years. There are just so many buds(?) competing that the bottom leaves of most buds are just dying. I pulled out a section and put it in a separate pot but after pulling out the dead leaves there's at least 6 inches of stem from where the dead leaves were. I was wondering if I cut the plant so that the root is in one pot and part of the stem and the leaves went in another, would either survive? Thanks! Oh, and any suggestions about how to care for the big pot would be appreciated too.
How much of the plant is needed to grow an aloe plant?
A plant that age should be giving off alot of "babies". They are smaller ones growing off the side one the bottom of the big plant. I pull mine apart and make sure to get root and at least 1 "leaf". I never have a problem. Just make sure your older plant has enough room for it's roots. Has it bloomed for you? I didn't know they did that until mine surprised me with one. Good luck and happy growing.
Reply:I found a bunch of aloe that someone was tossing out. long and stringy.I took them home and buried them to the bottom part of the plant in a pot.I have to separate them every other year. I think you need to take the plant out of its pot and redo it.separate in to three different piles
place in the longest ones first.in the (center) fill with soil to the next level, plant the next size and so on.watter well let dry out completely, then watter.so you don't over water .it to grow healthy new roots. best of luck ( added) note; feed in warmer weather to promote flowering.
Gumps
How much of the plant is needed to grow an aloe plant?
A plant that age should be giving off alot of "babies". They are smaller ones growing off the side one the bottom of the big plant. I pull mine apart and make sure to get root and at least 1 "leaf". I never have a problem. Just make sure your older plant has enough room for it's roots. Has it bloomed for you? I didn't know they did that until mine surprised me with one. Good luck and happy growing.
Reply:I found a bunch of aloe that someone was tossing out. long and stringy.I took them home and buried them to the bottom part of the plant in a pot.I have to separate them every other year. I think you need to take the plant out of its pot and redo it.separate in to three different piles
place in the longest ones first.in the (center) fill with soil to the next level, plant the next size and so on.watter well let dry out completely, then watter.so you don't over water .it to grow healthy new roots. best of luck ( added) note; feed in warmer weather to promote flowering.
Gumps
I think... my plant is a chenise evergreen or elephant ears?
i am not sure which my plant is it only has four really big leaves about a foot by five inches, one leaf is bright yellow it used to be like the others which are dark green with white stripes leading out of the vain, i need some help here what do you think it is and whats wrong with that one leaf? how to care for it?
I think... my plant is a chenise evergreen or elephant ears?
Sam is right, it sounds like an Elephant Ear or Allocassia. The leaf has probably served its purpose and will die off after yellowing. Its no big deal all house plants do it.
Reply:I believe what you have is an elephant ear plant. Whats wrong with the one leaf might be an intense amount of sunlight on the plant, causing the chlorophyll to wipe off. I suggest moving the plant to a sunny-shady area. Kind of in the middle (not too sunny not too shady).
Good tips for caring for elephant plants:
Don't be afraid to overwater, just make sure you don't let it dry out for too long.
Fertilize every 2 - 4 weeks to help the plant do it's best.
Take out tuber (root system) before freezing temperatures start (put back in afterwards).
And as always, keep a sharp eye on the weather channel for bad weather and/or temperatures/climates.
Sincerely, [Insert cool name here].
Reply:chenise? heh
I think... my plant is a chenise evergreen or elephant ears?
Sam is right, it sounds like an Elephant Ear or Allocassia. The leaf has probably served its purpose and will die off after yellowing. Its no big deal all house plants do it.
Reply:I believe what you have is an elephant ear plant. Whats wrong with the one leaf might be an intense amount of sunlight on the plant, causing the chlorophyll to wipe off. I suggest moving the plant to a sunny-shady area. Kind of in the middle (not too sunny not too shady).
Good tips for caring for elephant plants:
Don't be afraid to overwater, just make sure you don't let it dry out for too long.
Fertilize every 2 - 4 weeks to help the plant do it's best.
Take out tuber (root system) before freezing temperatures start (put back in afterwards).
And as always, keep a sharp eye on the weather channel for bad weather and/or temperatures/climates.
Sincerely, [Insert cool name here].
Reply:chenise? heh
What can I plant under a pine tree?
I have a pine/fir/blue spruce tree (one of those...looks like a Christmas tree) that we cut up about 7 foot to allow for walking under it a few months ago. It drops lots of little needles...and I think will be hard to grow grass under. Can I plant some type of ground covering flower or plant under it that requires little to no sun? I live in central Illinois, zone 5. Or is it just impossible to plant because of all the needles? I could use some wood to build a square around it and sort of "raise" the ground up with fresh soil about 6 inches, but will it inevitably fail? Thanks!
What can I plant under a pine tree?
Very little will grow under a pine, partly because of the dense shade it casts. If you build up a bed around it, you could kill the tree by smothering its roots, and also by building up soil around the trunk, which makes it susceptable to insects and diseases.
You should not remove the pine needles, either, that is the tree's natural mulch. Try putting a bench and perhaps a pot or two with impatiens in the summer. there are lots of plants you can put in the area, azaleas, rhododendrons, ferns, astilbe, and the like but not under the tree. If you ever walk thru a pine woods, you will notice that there is very little, or no vegetation under the trees.
Reply:You can grow azaleas,, mahonia, choke cherry, hydrangea, hellebores. ferns, astilbe, huechera, lacecaps. repeating daylilies and hostas under them.
Reply:Sweet Woodruff is a great low growing, acid loving ground cover. It is also used as the flavoring for May wine and smells of new mown hay when dried.
Reply:Depending on how much light is getting through, where the tree is located, etc you should be able to plant flowers underneath it. We just planted regular flowers under ours... you can always go on the safe side and look for low-lighting/indirect sunlight types of flowers.
Reply:Any acid loving plant should grow there if it gets enough sun. Others have mentioned Rhododendrons and azaleas. Blueberries like acid soil, too.
Reply:pines look much better with that natural pine look
i.e. soil underneath with a few needles scattered on the ground
Reply:It is difficult to grow things under pines due to the acidity created by the fallen needles. This is a natural selection self defence feature so that the pine does not get crowded out by other plants.
Talk to a real garden centre (not Walmart or Home Depot) for recommendations.
Reply:No, don't build up around it , The tree will die. There are many plants that can be planted around it. Some are, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Pachysandra, Ivy and any other acid and shade loving plants.
How about building a tree bench around it, like a five or six sided one? You could put nice colorful weather proof cushions on it.
How about Slate? That would be easy to sweep or blow the needles away.
You could save the needles to make a Manger at Christmas time, even put the Manger by the tree.
kids clogs
What can I plant under a pine tree?
Very little will grow under a pine, partly because of the dense shade it casts. If you build up a bed around it, you could kill the tree by smothering its roots, and also by building up soil around the trunk, which makes it susceptable to insects and diseases.
You should not remove the pine needles, either, that is the tree's natural mulch. Try putting a bench and perhaps a pot or two with impatiens in the summer. there are lots of plants you can put in the area, azaleas, rhododendrons, ferns, astilbe, and the like but not under the tree. If you ever walk thru a pine woods, you will notice that there is very little, or no vegetation under the trees.
Reply:You can grow azaleas,, mahonia, choke cherry, hydrangea, hellebores. ferns, astilbe, huechera, lacecaps. repeating daylilies and hostas under them.
Reply:Sweet Woodruff is a great low growing, acid loving ground cover. It is also used as the flavoring for May wine and smells of new mown hay when dried.
Reply:Depending on how much light is getting through, where the tree is located, etc you should be able to plant flowers underneath it. We just planted regular flowers under ours... you can always go on the safe side and look for low-lighting/indirect sunlight types of flowers.
Reply:Any acid loving plant should grow there if it gets enough sun. Others have mentioned Rhododendrons and azaleas. Blueberries like acid soil, too.
Reply:pines look much better with that natural pine look
i.e. soil underneath with a few needles scattered on the ground
Reply:It is difficult to grow things under pines due to the acidity created by the fallen needles. This is a natural selection self defence feature so that the pine does not get crowded out by other plants.
Talk to a real garden centre (not Walmart or Home Depot) for recommendations.
Reply:No, don't build up around it , The tree will die. There are many plants that can be planted around it. Some are, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Pachysandra, Ivy and any other acid and shade loving plants.
How about building a tree bench around it, like a five or six sided one? You could put nice colorful weather proof cushions on it.
How about Slate? That would be easy to sweep or blow the needles away.
You could save the needles to make a Manger at Christmas time, even put the Manger by the tree.
kids clogs
What could a Codiaeum variegatum plant worth? (Croton Petra)?
Could someone advise me on how much the colourful Croton Petra plant worth? I bought it when it was very tiny and now its huge and I'd like to sell it. Its very healthy, had some strange flowers growing on it recently, and its very colourful. Its probably around 35 inches tall and 40 inches wide if not bigger. Its gorgeous but has no space for it anymore. Its becaming a beautiful tree.
I've attached a link that shows how it looks like but mine is actually bigger than what you see on that site.
Any ideas how much this plant could worth? I'd like to sell it asap but I don't want to overcharge anyone for it. Thank you!
What could a Codiaeum variegatum plant worth? (Croton Petra)?
Based on the specs you describe about $20-25.
It is about 7 gal size.
If it is in a fancy pot you might get $30.
I've attached a link that shows how it looks like but mine is actually bigger than what you see on that site.
Any ideas how much this plant could worth? I'd like to sell it asap but I don't want to overcharge anyone for it. Thank you!
What could a Codiaeum variegatum plant worth? (Croton Petra)?
Based on the specs you describe about $20-25.
It is about 7 gal size.
If it is in a fancy pot you might get $30.
How often should we record results?
It's for our Investigatory Project. the experiment is good for 2-3 months. This is our experiment. We will use 4 Lucky Bamboo plants (4 setups). In setup A, we will pour salt solution, B: sugar solution, C: Isopropyl Alcohol, D: Tap water. One of our dependent variables is how long the stem will grow in a given period of time. So, like, how often should we record? weekly? every 2 weeks? how long does it take for the stem to grow 1 inch?
How often should we record results?
Every 10 days.
Reply:My answer is C
Reply:I say weekly. I also wanted to say that I love your screen name.
Reply:record it every 15 days and it will grow 1 inch in 15 days
How often should we record results?
Every 10 days.
Reply:My answer is C
Reply:I say weekly. I also wanted to say that I love your screen name.
Reply:record it every 15 days and it will grow 1 inch in 15 days
I need help! Will my Irises flower next year?
I live in zone 5. and I bought some (dutch and bearded) irise bulbs, that are hardy here. on the box it said to plant them from sept. to november. I planted them in sep. and today I saw they have little leaves about 4-5 inch tall. We're supposed to have a hard frost this weekend and we normally have snow by mid nov. So will they lose thier enery now and not bloom next spring?
I need help! Will my Irises flower next year?
You'll be fine. Mine do that if I cut the old leaf sets off them. After you're initial bloom next year, don't cut the leaves off, just let them dry on their own or braid them and let them dry. Mulching over the top of where they are planted is always a good idea, just rake it off in the spring or leave it for nutrient.
Reply:Yes, when the freeze comes, they'll die back but then come back again in spring.
Reply:Your irises will be fine. Those little leaves might be nipped by the frost, but the rhizome will be fine. I leave all the leaves on my irises through the winter. In the spring, I just go out and clean up those that look crappy. I've got to figure the best way to keep the huge blooms from taking a header when spring rains come. I'm thinking nails and string on the fence they're planted next to.
Reply:Not to worry, they will be fine.
Reply:They will be fine.
I need help! Will my Irises flower next year?
You'll be fine. Mine do that if I cut the old leaf sets off them. After you're initial bloom next year, don't cut the leaves off, just let them dry on their own or braid them and let them dry. Mulching over the top of where they are planted is always a good idea, just rake it off in the spring or leave it for nutrient.
Reply:Yes, when the freeze comes, they'll die back but then come back again in spring.
Reply:Your irises will be fine. Those little leaves might be nipped by the frost, but the rhizome will be fine. I leave all the leaves on my irises through the winter. In the spring, I just go out and clean up those that look crappy. I've got to figure the best way to keep the huge blooms from taking a header when spring rains come. I'm thinking nails and string on the fence they're planted next to.
Reply:Not to worry, they will be fine.
Reply:They will be fine.
Could I get sued if I plant an edible plant on publicly accessible commercial property?
I got sunflowers which grow seeds at the head, but I'm scared that somebody will sue me for thousands of dollars if I plant them outside. Where I plan to plant the plants is on commercial property that I own but is publicly accessible that is about 10 feet away from a sidewalk.
Already paid seven thousand dollars settling a lawsuit, all because a toilet paper roll in the bathroom was 2 inches below the Americans with disabilities act guildlines. Which supposedly caused severe emotional distress.
Now I'm afriad that if I plant these plants somebody will try and eat them then sue me for getting sick if they do. I won't use pesticides or any chemicals on the plants and want to use them for ornamental purposes.
Could I get sued if I plant an edible plant on publicly accessible commercial property?
I am not an attorney, but common sense would dictate if you own the property, anyone who comes onto your property and eats the sunflower seeds does so at their own risk and if you want to stretch it a little more, technically, if they do not work for you or have any business on your property, they could be liable for trespassing.
Reply:Could you get sued? Of course you could get sued. This is 2008 and we have idle attorneys around every corner. If you are concerned, don't plant them.
Reply:YOur heart is in the right place. I think if you post a warning label you'll be fine....
ya gotta love the new millenium..........
Reply:Since you have all ready been sued after a lawyer went into your bathroom with measuring tape to measure the proper inches pertaining to your rolls of toilet paper, I would think that you would use common sense and plant your sunflowers on your own private property. I would plant them in my back yard and put up a fence. The American Disabilities Act loves to find a bathroom that is not designed for the unfortunate in wheelchairs. What if a wheelchair rolled right next to these sunflowers and ate one? Or a seeing eye dog ate it and died? The law pertains to the seeing eye dogs rigidly.Wow!
sandals church
Already paid seven thousand dollars settling a lawsuit, all because a toilet paper roll in the bathroom was 2 inches below the Americans with disabilities act guildlines. Which supposedly caused severe emotional distress.
Now I'm afriad that if I plant these plants somebody will try and eat them then sue me for getting sick if they do. I won't use pesticides or any chemicals on the plants and want to use them for ornamental purposes.
Could I get sued if I plant an edible plant on publicly accessible commercial property?
I am not an attorney, but common sense would dictate if you own the property, anyone who comes onto your property and eats the sunflower seeds does so at their own risk and if you want to stretch it a little more, technically, if they do not work for you or have any business on your property, they could be liable for trespassing.
Reply:Could you get sued? Of course you could get sued. This is 2008 and we have idle attorneys around every corner. If you are concerned, don't plant them.
Reply:YOur heart is in the right place. I think if you post a warning label you'll be fine....
ya gotta love the new millenium..........
Reply:Since you have all ready been sued after a lawyer went into your bathroom with measuring tape to measure the proper inches pertaining to your rolls of toilet paper, I would think that you would use common sense and plant your sunflowers on your own private property. I would plant them in my back yard and put up a fence. The American Disabilities Act loves to find a bathroom that is not designed for the unfortunate in wheelchairs. What if a wheelchair rolled right next to these sunflowers and ate one? Or a seeing eye dog ate it and died? The law pertains to the seeing eye dogs rigidly.Wow!
sandals church
How to I make my leggy sunflower seedlings more sturdy?
I germinated and grew them firstly in a greenhouse but left them in too long. I've planted them out now, but they became very leggy (some are about 9 inches tall and are only on their 3rd pair of leaves) so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to help make them stronger while they're growing and less prone to getting broke when it's windy? They're too small for a cane.
The ones I planted out when they got their first pair of leaves are really solid, still about 9 inches high, but with more pairs of leaves and much thicker stems.
How to I make my leggy sunflower seedlings more sturdy?
Get them on a good fertilizer schedule, lots of water and hopefully they are planted in a nice sunny location. Stake them up until they get a little healthier and you should have tall, strong sun flowers in no time.
Reply:i don't agree with this based on my own experience they don't have to be staked. Report It
Reply:According to two books that I have on the topic of growning plants from seeds, whenever one is attempting to begin plants indoors, one should use a florescent light along with regular lighting to produce the ultra-violet rays (blue from florescent and pink from lightbulbs). Second, the light should be placed about two or three inches above the plant to increase the amount of energy used to develop stems. This works well for our tomatoes. I usually use books on either end of the florescent light to increase it's height.
Don't just sit there, grow something!
Reply:i've had that same situation when i start my own seedlings. make sure they are in really full sun firstly. use those little bamboo stakes to reinforce their stem strength. once they get going you'll be able to remove those and they should be fine on their own.
the bamboo stakes will help them keep from blowing over and breaking until they develop a strong enough root system to support their height.
Reply:First they need a lot of sun and then plant them at least 40 cm (1 1/2) feet apart of anything even fence or bushes or a house. They like lots of water it's not easy if they are on a sun as well, so i suggest a huge backet or anything which u hide under the ground and then water it from the top. Good luck !
Ps: They don't need any bamboo sticks if they have space, they just grow
The ones I planted out when they got their first pair of leaves are really solid, still about 9 inches high, but with more pairs of leaves and much thicker stems.
How to I make my leggy sunflower seedlings more sturdy?
Get them on a good fertilizer schedule, lots of water and hopefully they are planted in a nice sunny location. Stake them up until they get a little healthier and you should have tall, strong sun flowers in no time.
Reply:i don't agree with this based on my own experience they don't have to be staked. Report It
Reply:According to two books that I have on the topic of growning plants from seeds, whenever one is attempting to begin plants indoors, one should use a florescent light along with regular lighting to produce the ultra-violet rays (blue from florescent and pink from lightbulbs). Second, the light should be placed about two or three inches above the plant to increase the amount of energy used to develop stems. This works well for our tomatoes. I usually use books on either end of the florescent light to increase it's height.
Don't just sit there, grow something!
Reply:i've had that same situation when i start my own seedlings. make sure they are in really full sun firstly. use those little bamboo stakes to reinforce their stem strength. once they get going you'll be able to remove those and they should be fine on their own.
the bamboo stakes will help them keep from blowing over and breaking until they develop a strong enough root system to support their height.
Reply:First they need a lot of sun and then plant them at least 40 cm (1 1/2) feet apart of anything even fence or bushes or a house. They like lots of water it's not easy if they are on a sun as well, so i suggest a huge backet or anything which u hide under the ground and then water it from the top. Good luck !
Ps: They don't need any bamboo sticks if they have space, they just grow
I have a 2.5 gallon tank. How many inches of sand should I put at the bottom to grow some Vallisneria Torti?
Vallisneria tortifolia or vallisneria corkscrew or corkscrew grass, different names for the same plant basically.
I have a 2.5 gallon tank. How many inches of sand should I put at the bottom to grow some Vallisneria Torti?
Corkscrew val grows to 3 feet tall, way too tall for a 2.5. You can trim it, but it will look like crap.
If you really want it though, 1-2 inches is fine, rooted plants grow better in gravel though. Snad packs tight and the plant has trouble pushing roots through it. Gravel has spaces for roots to slip in between.
According to my personal experience and the experience of everyone I know hwo has it, it grow to 3 feet.
Doesn't get as tall as I said? If I had a camera I would snap a pic for you right now. It IS corkscrew val and it IS 28 inches tall.
Reply:Put about 1 inch of gravel or sand in the bottom. This type of corkscrew doesn't get as tall as the other guy said. Your size tank will be fine. Here's some other info. Good Luck!
http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?what=p...
Reply:I have not personally Vallisneria Torti but I'm a book nerd and have read a lot about it. I would put 2" or 3" in and see what happens.
I have a 2.5 gallon tank. How many inches of sand should I put at the bottom to grow some Vallisneria Torti?
Corkscrew val grows to 3 feet tall, way too tall for a 2.5. You can trim it, but it will look like crap.
If you really want it though, 1-2 inches is fine, rooted plants grow better in gravel though. Snad packs tight and the plant has trouble pushing roots through it. Gravel has spaces for roots to slip in between.
According to my personal experience and the experience of everyone I know hwo has it, it grow to 3 feet.
Doesn't get as tall as I said? If I had a camera I would snap a pic for you right now. It IS corkscrew val and it IS 28 inches tall.
Reply:Put about 1 inch of gravel or sand in the bottom. This type of corkscrew doesn't get as tall as the other guy said. Your size tank will be fine. Here's some other info. Good Luck!
http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?what=p...
Reply:I have not personally Vallisneria Torti but I'm a book nerd and have read a lot about it. I would put 2" or 3" in and see what happens.
What causes bitterness in cucumbers?
We planted some cucumbers down here in south louisiana, and they are so bitter, it's unedible. They are ending up 12 to 15 inches long, and about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Could this be a type of English cucumber? Does anyone know what type this might be, and how can we get rid of the bitterness? Any input is greatly appreciated.
What causes bitterness in cucumbers?
I did that last year! Lol. Its because you bought the kind of cucmber grown exclusively for pickling, and thats why they are so bitter. You cant get rid of the bitterness, but you can plant another variation of cucmber. Sorry Im not of much help, ans good luck!
=]
Reply:I have always took and cut the stem(about 1/2 inch) end and rubbed it on the cut end.Then when that white foamy stuff comes out,I peel it and there you have it...Never fought with a bitter one.Grandmaw taught me that..Thanks for 2.
Reply:It is usually the skin and the meat nearest the skin that is bitter. Try pealing a little deeper and soaking the slices in some salt water.
I Googled this and found it has to do with the chemicals produced during certain types of weather and certain areas, plus the fact that certain types of cucumbers are much more bitter.
Reply:The bigger they are the more likely they are to be bitter.
You can give them a soak in water with a couple of tablespoons of white vinegar to help get the bitterness out. Or you can salt them and leave them in a colander for an hour or so and then rinse them like you do with eggplant to get the bitterness out.
Try both and see which way you like the taste better. I've done both in the past.
Reply:They sound like a telegraph cucumbers, but the still shouldn't be bitter. You could try pickling them to see if the improve
What causes bitterness in cucumbers?
I did that last year! Lol. Its because you bought the kind of cucmber grown exclusively for pickling, and thats why they are so bitter. You cant get rid of the bitterness, but you can plant another variation of cucmber. Sorry Im not of much help, ans good luck!
=]
Reply:I have always took and cut the stem(about 1/2 inch) end and rubbed it on the cut end.Then when that white foamy stuff comes out,I peel it and there you have it...Never fought with a bitter one.Grandmaw taught me that..Thanks for 2.
Reply:It is usually the skin and the meat nearest the skin that is bitter. Try pealing a little deeper and soaking the slices in some salt water.
I Googled this and found it has to do with the chemicals produced during certain types of weather and certain areas, plus the fact that certain types of cucumbers are much more bitter.
Reply:The bigger they are the more likely they are to be bitter.
You can give them a soak in water with a couple of tablespoons of white vinegar to help get the bitterness out. Or you can salt them and leave them in a colander for an hour or so and then rinse them like you do with eggplant to get the bitterness out.
Try both and see which way you like the taste better. I've done both in the past.
Reply:They sound like a telegraph cucumbers, but the still shouldn't be bitter. You could try pickling them to see if the improve
I recieved a plant from Quill Corp. as their preferred cust. Anyone know what kind of plant it is?
I recieved a plant from Quill the office supply company because my company is a prefered cust of theirs. For the life of me I cannot figure out what it is and its really annoying me. I tried looking up house plants online, I've called Quill about it. I just want to know what the heck this plant is. Its just annoying like when you have a song stuck in your head and you can't remember the name. Anyway , it looks similar to the money tree plant but it doesn't have the five leaves on a branch. It stands about 11 inches tall and has shinny leaves.
I recieved a plant from Quill Corp. as their preferred cust. Anyone know what kind of plant it is?
Its called FREE,forget about money
Reply:do you have pic of it?
Reply:Schefflera? what kind of leaves, round, pointed,alternate, compound? More information please.
gina
I recieved a plant from Quill Corp. as their preferred cust. Anyone know what kind of plant it is?
Its called FREE,forget about money
Reply:do you have pic of it?
Reply:Schefflera? what kind of leaves, round, pointed,alternate, compound? More information please.
gina
Why is the shallow end of my pond mossy?
I'm in Florida, the pond is about 18 inches deep at the shallow end and about 3' deep at the other end with a waterfall. The entire pond gets lots of sun even though there is a large avacado tree over the shallow end. I purchased an upgraded filtration system when the pond was installed. The rocks on the floor of the shallow end are covered with a fuzzy green moss. I do have some plants in the water. What can I do to eliminate this?
Why is the shallow end of my pond mossy?
Its algae, not moss. Algae needs nutrients and sun to grow and it doesn't like moving water so the waterfall is protecting the deep end. Try adding floating plants with large leaves to shade the water. There are also underwater "oxygenating" plants you can add that will shade the rocks and use up some the nutrients. Limit nutrients in the water by limiting the use of fish food and preventing fertilizer and soil runoff into the pond from nearby gardens or lawns. Finally barley straw, available at pond supply centres, produces a chemical as it decomposes that kills algae. It takes a bit of time to work.
There are also algae killing chemicals you can add to the water, the dead algae can create a problems so chemicals should be a last resort.
Reply:You can buy some water barley and weigh it down just below the water. The breakdown will cause a natural elimination of the algae.
Why is the shallow end of my pond mossy?
Its algae, not moss. Algae needs nutrients and sun to grow and it doesn't like moving water so the waterfall is protecting the deep end. Try adding floating plants with large leaves to shade the water. There are also underwater "oxygenating" plants you can add that will shade the rocks and use up some the nutrients. Limit nutrients in the water by limiting the use of fish food and preventing fertilizer and soil runoff into the pond from nearby gardens or lawns. Finally barley straw, available at pond supply centres, produces a chemical as it decomposes that kills algae. It takes a bit of time to work.
There are also algae killing chemicals you can add to the water, the dead algae can create a problems so chemicals should be a last resort.
Reply:You can buy some water barley and weigh it down just below the water. The breakdown will cause a natural elimination of the algae.
I just got some Venus Fly Traps, What else do I need to know?
I made a terrarium out of an extra large glass jar w/glass lid, I mixed 60% peatmoss, 40% perlite with about an inch of pea-sized rock on the bottom for drainage. Can I keep them planted during dormancy? I live in Phoenix, so its a nice cool 40 to 70 degrees during winter.
I just got some Venus Fly Traps, What else do I need to know?
40 to 70 degrees is a bit on the warm side for a VFT dormancy (35-50 would be better) but they should slow down and go semi-dormant..so yes, just leave them in their pots and leave them outside all winter..
I would be wary of the "pea sized rock"..rocks can leach minerals into the water, making the water harder..you dont want that...the gravel isnt necessary..just use the peat and perlite, and keep the pots in trays of water.
Scot
Reply:teach them to eat nonliving foods if kept indoors, it's a real ***** to keep stocking it with live moths or flies, or handfeeding it crickets, although i do enjoy to do it often, just not alllll the time. I cut up thick sliced deli ham into tiny pieces and microwave it until alittle more than room temp so they think it's alive and then with a toopick or tweezers i lightly touch the hairs. dont stick the toothpick too far into the meat though or they will let go when you try and pull it out, and they dont like that 8) good luck, they're awesome little devils
Reply:Use distilled water to water them, they will do fine
I just got some Venus Fly Traps, What else do I need to know?
40 to 70 degrees is a bit on the warm side for a VFT dormancy (35-50 would be better) but they should slow down and go semi-dormant..so yes, just leave them in their pots and leave them outside all winter..
I would be wary of the "pea sized rock"..rocks can leach minerals into the water, making the water harder..you dont want that...the gravel isnt necessary..just use the peat and perlite, and keep the pots in trays of water.
Scot
Reply:teach them to eat nonliving foods if kept indoors, it's a real ***** to keep stocking it with live moths or flies, or handfeeding it crickets, although i do enjoy to do it often, just not alllll the time. I cut up thick sliced deli ham into tiny pieces and microwave it until alittle more than room temp so they think it's alive and then with a toopick or tweezers i lightly touch the hairs. dont stick the toothpick too far into the meat though or they will let go when you try and pull it out, and they dont like that 8) good luck, they're awesome little devils
Reply:Use distilled water to water them, they will do fine
What type of weed is this?
Here's my description: They started out coming up, and looked sort of like clovers, only the leaves were aligned in rows along the weed. There's probably 6-10 leaves per each stem. They've grown rather quickly. They emerged about 3 weeks ago, and now the plants are about 8 inches high. They're covering about 90% of my property.
What type of weed is this?
Here are some Website references to help you identify your weed by different criteris. The second reference also has links which may be helpful. Without a picture and more information, it's probably not going to be possible to help you.
Reply:Is there any way you could post a picture? your description is good, but it's hard to tell from words alone.
Reply:could be creeping oxalis???
Reply:spurge
Reply:lespedeza
Reply:It might be creeping Charlie. It will have a pretty purple flower on it and have a very fragrant almost minty smell when cut. I attached a link to see what it looks like. There is really no way to get rid of it, aside from ripping up your whole yard and starting over :(
What type of weed is this?
Here are some Website references to help you identify your weed by different criteris. The second reference also has links which may be helpful. Without a picture and more information, it's probably not going to be possible to help you.
Reply:Is there any way you could post a picture? your description is good, but it's hard to tell from words alone.
Reply:could be creeping oxalis???
Reply:spurge
Reply:lespedeza
Reply:It might be creeping Charlie. It will have a pretty purple flower on it and have a very fragrant almost minty smell when cut. I attached a link to see what it looks like. There is really no way to get rid of it, aside from ripping up your whole yard and starting over :(
How do you plant around existing plants?
I have a sparsely populated backyard.The east side of my house has a couple of shrubs and small trees but they are all not close to each other.I'd like to fill the empty spaces in between these plants.These plants have been around for a couple years and they are growing well, I don't want to uproot them so that I can raise the planting bed.I also don't want the water run-off to choke them. I do have the intention of amending the soil (and putting up an edging)so that will probably raise the soil level to a couple of inches or so but not to the proper height for a raised bed. So can I just plant on this soil level and make individual mounds for my new plants? Or do I have to raise the beds?...*groan* Thanks to anybody who can give me tips! .
How do you plant around existing plants?
You don't have to raise the soil level to amend the soil. Plant plant new plants. Dig the soil, mix amendments with the native soil, and then backfill with the amended soil.
Dig the hole only as deep as the container of the plant you're planting. You don't want the crown of the plant (where the roots become stems) to be below ground level. But dig the hole twice as wide as the container.
Reply:most perennials are vary hardy and there are sure to be plenty of good stuff in your current soil so just over digging the hole a lil and adding a lil potting soil shuld be fine good luck
wesley
How do you plant around existing plants?
You don't have to raise the soil level to amend the soil. Plant plant new plants. Dig the soil, mix amendments with the native soil, and then backfill with the amended soil.
Dig the hole only as deep as the container of the plant you're planting. You don't want the crown of the plant (where the roots become stems) to be below ground level. But dig the hole twice as wide as the container.
Reply:most perennials are vary hardy and there are sure to be plenty of good stuff in your current soil so just over digging the hole a lil and adding a lil potting soil shuld be fine good luck
wesley
Cover off, my cat ate the new corn seedlings in my jiffy planters? That was surprise. Will they keep growing?
I planted some Hopi blue corn and the seedlings were about two inches high. I had them on the kitchen counter letting them air a bit. My crazy cat ate them. I did not expect that.
Why did he do that?
Will the corn just keep growing or die off?
Cover off, my cat ate the new corn seedlings in my jiffy planters? That was surprise. Will they keep growing?
The answer is kinda yes kinda no. Corn is one of those plants that resent being transplanted, so even if your cat hadn't helped himself to a salad, it probably wouldn't have thrived anyway. However the seedling "stumps" should survive to produce a second helping for your cat. Cats and even dogs are prone to "grazing" this time of year, so plant some more greens for kitty. This time plant any untreated grass seed or small grain in small containers every couple weeks for a constant supply. Back to your "Hopi blue", you can start your corn in a jiffy but don't expect a normal 6-8 ft. plant with 12 in. ears. What you will get in effect, is a cute little "dwarf" 3-4 ft. with little 4in. ears suitable for a container. If you want a normal crop of corn plant directly in the garden after the ground is nice and warm. RScott
Reply:I don't think they will keep growing in the cat, if that's what your asking.. (kidding)
he ate them because something's missing in his diet. or he had a tummy ache.. like dogs eat grass.
better try to re-germinate the corn.
Why did he do that?
Will the corn just keep growing or die off?
Cover off, my cat ate the new corn seedlings in my jiffy planters? That was surprise. Will they keep growing?
The answer is kinda yes kinda no. Corn is one of those plants that resent being transplanted, so even if your cat hadn't helped himself to a salad, it probably wouldn't have thrived anyway. However the seedling "stumps" should survive to produce a second helping for your cat. Cats and even dogs are prone to "grazing" this time of year, so plant some more greens for kitty. This time plant any untreated grass seed or small grain in small containers every couple weeks for a constant supply. Back to your "Hopi blue", you can start your corn in a jiffy but don't expect a normal 6-8 ft. plant with 12 in. ears. What you will get in effect, is a cute little "dwarf" 3-4 ft. with little 4in. ears suitable for a container. If you want a normal crop of corn plant directly in the garden after the ground is nice and warm. RScott
Reply:I don't think they will keep growing in the cat, if that's what your asking.. (kidding)
he ate them because something's missing in his diet. or he had a tummy ache.. like dogs eat grass.
better try to re-germinate the corn.
What website shows raised flower beds?
I have a brick (concrete on bottom) raised flower bed attached to my house. I want some ideas of plants to put in it. I can't find any websites that show pictures of raised flower beds. Maybe they are called something else and I just can't find it. Mine is 25 feet long by 5 or 6 feet wide. It is only 10-11 inches deep and is on a concrete slab. Not a lot of drainage. We are working on that. Anyway, any websites or ideas appreciated.
What website shows raised flower beds?
here's a couple websites. raised beds are the way to go. you should go to your local nursery and get some suggestions, because you'd want to get plants that do really well for your area and depending on how much sun/shade your beds have.
Reply:http://www.ehow.com/how_9398_make-raised...
What website shows raised flower beds?
here's a couple websites. raised beds are the way to go. you should go to your local nursery and get some suggestions, because you'd want to get plants that do really well for your area and depending on how much sun/shade your beds have.
Reply:http://www.ehow.com/how_9398_make-raised...
When should I repot an avocado tree?
I am growing an avocado tree that is about a year old. It's about 18 inches hight and growing, but kind of slowly. It's been in its current pot for about 8 months--when should I give it new soil and a bigger space? FYI the pot is plenty big for the tree at its current size. I'm an apartment dweller, so ground planting is not an option.
When should I repot an avocado tree?
as with all potted plant, change the soil is not necessary but you can do it once a year. They said pot should be as big as the foliage. But for me, just pull the tree out of the pot in spring, if it has root-bound (roots from a tight net inside the pot) then it's time to transplant and change soil, otherwise, just throw it back in and fertilize it.
Avocado is a giant tree (up to 65ft high) so you need to keep pruning it and trimming it to keep it in check (so that you can keep it in a reasonable size pot)
When should I repot an avocado tree?
as with all potted plant, change the soil is not necessary but you can do it once a year. They said pot should be as big as the foliage. But for me, just pull the tree out of the pot in spring, if it has root-bound (roots from a tight net inside the pot) then it's time to transplant and change soil, otherwise, just throw it back in and fertilize it.
Avocado is a giant tree (up to 65ft high) so you need to keep pruning it and trimming it to keep it in check (so that you can keep it in a reasonable size pot)
The tip on my magnolia tree broke, will it still grow?
Just planted two weeks ago, it is about 3 ft. high and about five inches of the tip of the leader broke. It only has one other branch and it goes to the side, will the tree still grow correctly??
The tip on my magnolia tree broke, will it still grow?
Your tree will be able to grow more branches, even though the tip broke off as long as there are leaves on it during growing season.
loan
The tip on my magnolia tree broke, will it still grow?
Your tree will be able to grow more branches, even though the tip broke off as long as there are leaves on it during growing season.
loan
My backyard is just filled with dirt, and now I want to landscape it...?
I want grass and plants, with a type of "wave" pattern. And a divider between the grass and plants about 6 inches. (filled with concrete). I took an estimation and people say it should cost approximately $1500. Its about 50 ft by 15 ft. Is that a good price?
My backyard is just filled with dirt, and now I want to landscape it...?
get a few quotes, don't choose the highest or the lowest.
Reply:Sounds kinda cheap, ask someone else for a quote.
Reply:It sounds like to good of a price for curbing, product and labor. Depending on quantity and value of the plants will be a factor. I'm not sure about this but I think curbing is around $3.00 per ft. That will probably be the most expensive part of your design. If your totally looking for a landscape contractor to do this make sure they have a business license first. 99% of reputable landscapers won't need money up front, they'll ask for a contract to be signed.
Reply:What area are you in? Your location makes a difference. Here in Central Florida that's a good price. There's so much competition here that that price is not unreasonable at all for that work.
My backyard is just filled with dirt, and now I want to landscape it...?
get a few quotes, don't choose the highest or the lowest.
Reply:Sounds kinda cheap, ask someone else for a quote.
Reply:It sounds like to good of a price for curbing, product and labor. Depending on quantity and value of the plants will be a factor. I'm not sure about this but I think curbing is around $3.00 per ft. That will probably be the most expensive part of your design. If your totally looking for a landscape contractor to do this make sure they have a business license first. 99% of reputable landscapers won't need money up front, they'll ask for a contract to be signed.
Reply:What area are you in? Your location makes a difference. Here in Central Florida that's a good price. There's so much competition here that that price is not unreasonable at all for that work.
Are my seedlings going to be okay?
I planted some sweetpea seeds a couple of weeks ago and the seedlings have shot up about 10 inches already - will they be okay?
Are my seedlings going to be okay?
Assuming they are indoors or in a frost-free greenhouse ...... they are just fine. Give each one a 3ft garden cane to grow up and secure them loosely - they do get tangled together easily if left. Wind them loosley around each cane and secure them with Sweet Pea rings or velcro and they will grow away nicely! Wait until the last risk of frost has passed (which could be .....er, no idea - it's meant to SNOW at Easter) before you plant them out. They are fine, Good Luck :-)
Reply:yes they should be fine, I would put a plastic dome over them in case it does snow
Reply:As long as you keep watering them and giving them sun they should be fine...
Reply:They have probably overgrown, need hardening off
Reply:Put them in a cold frame or unheated green house to harden them up.
Are my seedlings going to be okay?
Assuming they are indoors or in a frost-free greenhouse ...... they are just fine. Give each one a 3ft garden cane to grow up and secure them loosely - they do get tangled together easily if left. Wind them loosley around each cane and secure them with Sweet Pea rings or velcro and they will grow away nicely! Wait until the last risk of frost has passed (which could be .....er, no idea - it's meant to SNOW at Easter) before you plant them out. They are fine, Good Luck :-)
Reply:yes they should be fine, I would put a plastic dome over them in case it does snow
Reply:As long as you keep watering them and giving them sun they should be fine...
Reply:They have probably overgrown, need hardening off
Reply:Put them in a cold frame or unheated green house to harden them up.
Anyone know anything about nettle weevil?
In December last year my partner and I moved into a house with a very neglected garden. A large area was covered in 6ft high nettles. After a lot of work clearing and digging we finally got to planting some food plants. Something which greatly resembles a nettle weevil is eating the edges of all the leaves of the broad bean babies, the plants are about 5 inches tall, and there are some very small black marks on them.
They are definatly not black fly.
Does anybody have any idea what they are and how on earth I can get rid of them. Preferably organically. Thanks
Anyone know anything about nettle weevil?
Biological Sciences, University of Paisley
BIODIVERSITY REFERENCE
Phyllobius pomaceus Gyllenhal
(a nettle weevil)
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Uniramia
Class: Pterygota – insects
Order: Coleoptera – beetles
British distribution: Widespread, locally common.
World distribution: Northern and western Europe, extending into northern Asia.
Phyllobius pomaceus (= P. urticae De Geer) is a weevil, i.e. a beetle of the family Curculionidae, in which the head is extended into an elongated snout, the rostrum. It is a frequent and sometimes conspicuous species on patches of Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) and is the common, green-coloured weevil on this plant. Some sources call this the "Nettle Weevil" or the "Green Nettle Weevil", but see below regarding confusion over these names.
Phyllobius pomaceus on Urtica dioica, Weardale, Co. Durham, June 2006. Light souce: natural daylight.
Identification
Phyllobius is a genus of "short-nosed weevils", in which the rostrum is relatively short and extends little beyond the points of attachment of the antennae.
P. pomaceus is a well-known species but requires attention to critical characters for certain identification. It is by no means the only green weevil of metallic appearance and even on nettles it is readily confused with other species. Numerous images are posted on the Web, but not all are correctly named. Misidentified images include those claiming the species on host plants other than Urtica.
Although described here as "green", it should be noted that the basic colour in this species is black, but with the beetle extensively coated with metallic, typically green to blue-green (sometimes also golden or coppery) scales. With age, more of the black ground colour is revealed as the scales are rubbed off. Perceived colour may also depend on lighting; photographs shown here were taken in natural daylight under a blue sky and it seems that the beetle appears more strongly green under artificial light or with flash.
Ten British species of Phyllobius are listed by Morris (2004). A useful account of most of these species, with coloured illustrations, was provided by Linssen (1959). The genus is characterised by a scaly pubescence or by the tiny, metallic scales, which in most species coat the entire dorsal surface of the insect. The colour of these scales varies in many species, including P. pomaceus, from various shades of green to coppery brown. The majority are leaf-eaters, non-specifically on various trees.
The genus Polydrusus is very similar, the distinction being that the "scrobes" (the furrows in the rostrum into which the first joints of the antennae fit) are curved rather than straight – diagram in Joy (1932).
In continental Europe, Chlorophanus is another, similar genus. C. viridis, illustrated in Harde (1984), resembles P. pomaceus very closely but lacks femoral teeth (see below), has shorter antennae and occurs on alders (Alnus) (Harde, op. cit.).
Vital characters for confirmation of P. pomaceus are:
i) relatively large size, length 7-9 mm;
ii) the femora each bear a conspicuous, more or less ventral tooth (most easily seen on the front pair of legs);
iii) the legs are black beneath the scales;
iv) the antennae are dark beneath the scales, though tinged rust right at the base and sometimes at the tips;
v) nettles (Urtica) as the host plant.
Two closely related species, also green and also occurring or reported on nettles are:
? P. virideaeris (Laicharting) length to 4.5 mm; femora with swellings but lacking distinct teeth; ground colour of antennae and legs red to rust-coloured, or femora darker; underside of abdomen thickly covered with scales; elytra in side view evenly rounded from posterior to apex; polyphagous on various trees and other plants – supposed association with nettles may be due to former use of the name for the following species. Various sources dub this the "Green Nettle Weevil", but confusion with P. pomaceus, either in name or identification, seems likely – it is not the common and conspicuous green weevil of nettles!
? P. roboretanus Gredler (= P. parvulus Olivier) very similar to P. virideaeris but length to 3.5 mm; underside of abdomen with no more than sparse pubescence; elytra in side view abruptly curved towards apex. Dubbed the "Small Green Nettle Weevil" and noted as occurring on nettles by Linssen (1959), but not listed as especially associated with nettles by either Philp (1991) or Bullock (1992) and presumably polyphagous.
Characters are taken from Linssen (op. cit.) and Joy (1932). Linssen also mentions P. pyri, another polyphagous species, as often occurring on nettles. Typically it has coppery scales but it can be greenish and it has femoral teeth. However, its legs are yellow and its antennae are rust-coloured or red.
A large and useful gallery of weevil photographs, including species of Phyllobius, Polydrusus and Chlorophanus, is to be found at
http://galerie-insecte.org/galerie/html/...
and excellent and comprehensive sets of plates of comparative photographs are provided at
http://claude.schott.free.fr/iconographi...
(Species under discussion here are at http://claude.schott.free.fr/Phyllobius/...
Ecology
P. pomaceus feeds openly on the leaves of Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) and is host-specific (Philp, 1991). Individuals are often numerous and so relatively conspicuous on nettle colonies in early summer. The larvae are root feeders, presumably on the same host.
It should be noted that the epithet "pomaceus" evidently refers to the (sometimes) apple-green colour of the beetle (literally resembling an apple), and does not indicate any feeding relationship with apple trees.
Morris (1991) wrote a very useful introductory guide to weevils, primarily to British species, with notes on their ecology and biology. It includes a short section on weevils of nettles that includes P. pomaceus but not other Phyllobius species.
References:
? Bullock, J.A., (1992). Host plants of British beetles: a list of recorded associations, Amateur Entomologists' Society, Feltham.
? Harde, K.W., (1984). A field guide in colour to beetles, Octopus Books, London.
? Morris, M.G., (1991). Weevils. Naturalists' Handbooks 16, Richmond Publishing Co., Slough.
? Morris, M. [G.], (2004). Checklist of beetles of the British Isles: Curculionidae, http://www.coleopterist.org.uk/curculion... revised 11 June, 2004.
? Joy, N.H., (1932). A practical handbook of British beetles, 2 vols., H., F.%26amp; G. Witherby, London.
? Linssen, E.F., (1959). Beetles of the British Isles, series 2, F.Warne, London.
? Philp, E.G, (1991). Vascular plants and the beetles associated with them, in Cooter, J., (ed.), A coleopterist's handbook, ed. 3, Amateur Entomologists' Society, Feltham, pp. 183-198.
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Photographs %26amp; background ? A.J. Silverside
Page author: Dr. Alan J. Silverside, August 2006.
e-mail: alan.silverside@paisley.ac.uk – but do NOT e-mail me pictures of weevils for identification!
research page: http://www-biol.paisley.ac.uk/research/A...
They are definatly not black fly.
Does anybody have any idea what they are and how on earth I can get rid of them. Preferably organically. Thanks
Anyone know anything about nettle weevil?
Biological Sciences, University of Paisley
BIODIVERSITY REFERENCE
Phyllobius pomaceus Gyllenhal
(a nettle weevil)
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Uniramia
Class: Pterygota – insects
Order: Coleoptera – beetles
British distribution: Widespread, locally common.
World distribution: Northern and western Europe, extending into northern Asia.
Phyllobius pomaceus (= P. urticae De Geer) is a weevil, i.e. a beetle of the family Curculionidae, in which the head is extended into an elongated snout, the rostrum. It is a frequent and sometimes conspicuous species on patches of Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) and is the common, green-coloured weevil on this plant. Some sources call this the "Nettle Weevil" or the "Green Nettle Weevil", but see below regarding confusion over these names.
Phyllobius pomaceus on Urtica dioica, Weardale, Co. Durham, June 2006. Light souce: natural daylight.
Identification
Phyllobius is a genus of "short-nosed weevils", in which the rostrum is relatively short and extends little beyond the points of attachment of the antennae.
P. pomaceus is a well-known species but requires attention to critical characters for certain identification. It is by no means the only green weevil of metallic appearance and even on nettles it is readily confused with other species. Numerous images are posted on the Web, but not all are correctly named. Misidentified images include those claiming the species on host plants other than Urtica.
Although described here as "green", it should be noted that the basic colour in this species is black, but with the beetle extensively coated with metallic, typically green to blue-green (sometimes also golden or coppery) scales. With age, more of the black ground colour is revealed as the scales are rubbed off. Perceived colour may also depend on lighting; photographs shown here were taken in natural daylight under a blue sky and it seems that the beetle appears more strongly green under artificial light or with flash.
Ten British species of Phyllobius are listed by Morris (2004). A useful account of most of these species, with coloured illustrations, was provided by Linssen (1959). The genus is characterised by a scaly pubescence or by the tiny, metallic scales, which in most species coat the entire dorsal surface of the insect. The colour of these scales varies in many species, including P. pomaceus, from various shades of green to coppery brown. The majority are leaf-eaters, non-specifically on various trees.
The genus Polydrusus is very similar, the distinction being that the "scrobes" (the furrows in the rostrum into which the first joints of the antennae fit) are curved rather than straight – diagram in Joy (1932).
In continental Europe, Chlorophanus is another, similar genus. C. viridis, illustrated in Harde (1984), resembles P. pomaceus very closely but lacks femoral teeth (see below), has shorter antennae and occurs on alders (Alnus) (Harde, op. cit.).
Vital characters for confirmation of P. pomaceus are:
i) relatively large size, length 7-9 mm;
ii) the femora each bear a conspicuous, more or less ventral tooth (most easily seen on the front pair of legs);
iii) the legs are black beneath the scales;
iv) the antennae are dark beneath the scales, though tinged rust right at the base and sometimes at the tips;
v) nettles (Urtica) as the host plant.
Two closely related species, also green and also occurring or reported on nettles are:
? P. virideaeris (Laicharting) length to 4.5 mm; femora with swellings but lacking distinct teeth; ground colour of antennae and legs red to rust-coloured, or femora darker; underside of abdomen thickly covered with scales; elytra in side view evenly rounded from posterior to apex; polyphagous on various trees and other plants – supposed association with nettles may be due to former use of the name for the following species. Various sources dub this the "Green Nettle Weevil", but confusion with P. pomaceus, either in name or identification, seems likely – it is not the common and conspicuous green weevil of nettles!
? P. roboretanus Gredler (= P. parvulus Olivier) very similar to P. virideaeris but length to 3.5 mm; underside of abdomen with no more than sparse pubescence; elytra in side view abruptly curved towards apex. Dubbed the "Small Green Nettle Weevil" and noted as occurring on nettles by Linssen (1959), but not listed as especially associated with nettles by either Philp (1991) or Bullock (1992) and presumably polyphagous.
Characters are taken from Linssen (op. cit.) and Joy (1932). Linssen also mentions P. pyri, another polyphagous species, as often occurring on nettles. Typically it has coppery scales but it can be greenish and it has femoral teeth. However, its legs are yellow and its antennae are rust-coloured or red.
A large and useful gallery of weevil photographs, including species of Phyllobius, Polydrusus and Chlorophanus, is to be found at
http://galerie-insecte.org/galerie/html/...
and excellent and comprehensive sets of plates of comparative photographs are provided at
http://claude.schott.free.fr/iconographi...
(Species under discussion here are at http://claude.schott.free.fr/Phyllobius/...
Ecology
P. pomaceus feeds openly on the leaves of Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) and is host-specific (Philp, 1991). Individuals are often numerous and so relatively conspicuous on nettle colonies in early summer. The larvae are root feeders, presumably on the same host.
It should be noted that the epithet "pomaceus" evidently refers to the (sometimes) apple-green colour of the beetle (literally resembling an apple), and does not indicate any feeding relationship with apple trees.
Morris (1991) wrote a very useful introductory guide to weevils, primarily to British species, with notes on their ecology and biology. It includes a short section on weevils of nettles that includes P. pomaceus but not other Phyllobius species.
References:
? Bullock, J.A., (1992). Host plants of British beetles: a list of recorded associations, Amateur Entomologists' Society, Feltham.
? Harde, K.W., (1984). A field guide in colour to beetles, Octopus Books, London.
? Morris, M.G., (1991). Weevils. Naturalists' Handbooks 16, Richmond Publishing Co., Slough.
? Morris, M. [G.], (2004). Checklist of beetles of the British Isles: Curculionidae, http://www.coleopterist.org.uk/curculion... revised 11 June, 2004.
? Joy, N.H., (1932). A practical handbook of British beetles, 2 vols., H., F.%26amp; G. Witherby, London.
? Linssen, E.F., (1959). Beetles of the British Isles, series 2, F.Warne, London.
? Philp, E.G, (1991). Vascular plants and the beetles associated with them, in Cooter, J., (ed.), A coleopterist's handbook, ed. 3, Amateur Entomologists' Society, Feltham, pp. 183-198.
--------------------------------------...
Use the "Back" command or button of your browser to return to the referring page.
Return to BIODIVERSITY REFERENCE index page
Go to Conditions of Use
Return to Biological Sciences Home Page
--------------------------------------...
Photographs %26amp; background ? A.J. Silverside
Page author: Dr. Alan J. Silverside, August 2006.
e-mail: alan.silverside@paisley.ac.uk – but do NOT e-mail me pictures of weevils for identification!
research page: http://www-biol.paisley.ac.uk/research/A...
I have little mushrooms growing in my cactus pot, is this normal?
I have 3 littles cactus' growing in a 15 inch diameter pot with special cactus soil. They are not exposed to much daylight (however, there is a window next to them) and I water them maybe once a week to the most. I've had them for maybe a year now, and just recently, I started noticing some little mushrooms growing (long thin stem with a little yellow tip), and some with and green fungus-type substance under some spots in the soil. The cactus seem very healthy and are growing well, but I am concerned about the mushrooms and fungus growing. There seems to be little or no humidity in the room they are kept and it is very clean and ventilated so I do not know where this is coming from and if it's safe (for the plants and for me to breathe around)
Any advice??
Thanks in advance for your help!
I have little mushrooms growing in my cactus pot, is this normal?
It is not normal. Take them out and throw them away. It is caused from to much moisture. You might want to transplant them or at least, let them dry out. They dont need much watering. Good luck with them.
Reply:water the plants a little less often. it could kill the mushroom.
Textiles
Any advice??
Thanks in advance for your help!
I have little mushrooms growing in my cactus pot, is this normal?
It is not normal. Take them out and throw them away. It is caused from to much moisture. You might want to transplant them or at least, let them dry out. They dont need much watering. Good luck with them.
Reply:water the plants a little less often. it could kill the mushroom.
Textiles
Plant different potato varieties together?
I'm getting ready to plant container potatoes and just want to make sure I can plant maybe 3-4 white variety seed pieces and 1-2 red variety seed pieces in the same container. It is about 2 ft wide and 18" tall.
Also, I've read about adding potting mix, etc. to the container as the plant grows (like hilling the potatoes in the field) but the layering confuses me. I see lots of people say to start with ~6 inches of soil under the seed pieces and ~6 inches of leaves or compost above them. I only have potting mix and leaves/pine needles. When I go to build up the next layer, do I just add the potting mix on top of the leaves? Or do I just use more leaves?
Plant different potato varieties together?
But how long is it? Each of the plants will need a foot (and better 2). Mixing won't hurt as they produce vegetatively so cross-breeding is not a problem.
Reply:Yes, mixing them is fine. Add more potting mix as you layer up, not just leaves. Good luck!
Reply:Planting them together is fine. I would mark them with stakes so I know what I'm going to pull. They may have different growing seasons or may be for different purposes like baking or boiling.
Good Growing :)
Also, I've read about adding potting mix, etc. to the container as the plant grows (like hilling the potatoes in the field) but the layering confuses me. I see lots of people say to start with ~6 inches of soil under the seed pieces and ~6 inches of leaves or compost above them. I only have potting mix and leaves/pine needles. When I go to build up the next layer, do I just add the potting mix on top of the leaves? Or do I just use more leaves?
Plant different potato varieties together?
But how long is it? Each of the plants will need a foot (and better 2). Mixing won't hurt as they produce vegetatively so cross-breeding is not a problem.
Reply:Yes, mixing them is fine. Add more potting mix as you layer up, not just leaves. Good luck!
Reply:Planting them together is fine. I would mark them with stakes so I know what I'm going to pull. They may have different growing seasons or may be for different purposes like baking or boiling.
Good Growing :)
Any ideas about My Rose problem?
I was following online advice and bought a good clipper and was going to wait 2 years before pruning for the first time. Someone thought they were doing me a favor and cut them a year early with old clipper! They look awful! It looks like weeds or a different plant growing from some of the clipped stems. Most are stunted and haven't grown an inch in 1 month! Any idea how to repair? Thanks for ideas!!
Any ideas about My Rose problem?
Good news! Actually roses are pretty hard to destroy. Leave it alone for awhile except for watering and feeding during the summer months and into autumn. Then let nature take its course with mulching or covering if necessary in your area for hard frost. Next spring is a new season and you will see it take off! A good rose food and insect repellent is Ortho Systemic Rose Food found at most garden centers. This will feed your roses and protect them at the same time from various pests and diseases. Keep your friend with the bad clippers away from your roses.
Reply:There is no real reason to wait two years or any other specific amount of time before pruning roses. The general idea on pruning is to prune plants when they need it. Nurserymen often prune roses on the day of planting or several times prior to sale in order to maximize their quality.
Your path to good roses is in providing the proper conditions of good soil, light, water, and protection from pests. It sounds as if the plants you have are not growing vigorously if they have only grown an inch in 1 month. Particularly if the new growth is stunted looking or off color. The plants may need food, or more or less water. How often are you watering? A common problem on many ornamental plantings is actually overwatering. You could dig down a little bit near the plants to determine if the soil is either too dry or waterlogged underneath the surface. I would not water them every day, more like once or twice a week. Full sun is best, and fluffy, organic, well drained soil. Water deeply when you water.
If you are growing hybrid tea roses for cut flower use (the long-stemmed kind) you are pruning each time you harvest a flower. You should cut the stems of spent flowers back to about the second set of five leaves to get additional flowers. If you have the shrub rose type for garden bloom they require far less pruning. In this case you could go around and just remove spent flowers. Many varieties are "self cleaning" and require no extra pruning during the bloom time. Feel free to prune any time during the season for shaping. Prune them significantly (some would say prune them hard) in the early spring as they begin to leaf out, selecting 3-6 sturdy, fresh looking canes to keep. I cut them down to 6-12" tall and thin out all the old, dead looking canes and the thin, little stuff. then you will have lots of growth from the base.
In either case, try to get these plants growing more vigorously. Pruning is not an issue if the plants are happy. And yes, a good clipper is essential, but I have some pretty old pairs! I like the Felco 2's the best.
Reply:My advice at this stage would be to make sure they are getting sufficient water and wait until the next growth spurt.
Reply:Coffee grounds, egg shells, beer, and Miracle Grow. Really, beer. My roses love it. Good luck.
Reply:Your rose will recover just fine. It is important to prune a rose when it is dormant, just a few weeks to a month before it buds out in the spring. If you prune during summer or fall, it may start to grow again, but then the tender new growth may get damaged when frost comes.
I have all sorts of roses, and each type gets pruned differently. If your soil happens to be poor, or has disease in it, that can affect the rose too.
I do not believe in frequent fertilizer for roses. Wild roses do not get fertilized at all, except for leaves that fall, and the occassional animal that leaves a little pile behind. I give each rose bush a quart of well aged manure and a quart of garden compost each year. If you buy a box of some sort of organic fertilizer, and apply a cup or so of that twice a year, the plant will get a steady amount of nutrients. If you use pelletized, chemical fertilizer, only use the recommended amount as stated on the bag. Be aware, that type fertilizer is concentrated, and only provides a few nutrients, whereas manure and compost give all sorts of trace nutrients.
As for pruning, there are definate dos and don'ts.
Do prune after the plant loses it's leaves to frost. If your winters are very cold, wait until you start seeing tiny swellings on the stems before pruning. The way to prune varies depending on variety, but it sounds like your "friend" is not familiar with proper pruning techniques.
I highly recommend you read up on proper pruning, and you can get all sorts of great information here: http://www.rosemagazine.com/pages/prunin...
Reply:Wish I could see a picture!
Try watering deeply a couple times a week and application of a slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote, every month.
Roses are heavy feeders.
I would never wait 2 years to prune my rose, even a climber. Pruning encourages plant growth.
Any ideas about My Rose problem?
Good news! Actually roses are pretty hard to destroy. Leave it alone for awhile except for watering and feeding during the summer months and into autumn. Then let nature take its course with mulching or covering if necessary in your area for hard frost. Next spring is a new season and you will see it take off! A good rose food and insect repellent is Ortho Systemic Rose Food found at most garden centers. This will feed your roses and protect them at the same time from various pests and diseases. Keep your friend with the bad clippers away from your roses.
Reply:There is no real reason to wait two years or any other specific amount of time before pruning roses. The general idea on pruning is to prune plants when they need it. Nurserymen often prune roses on the day of planting or several times prior to sale in order to maximize their quality.
Your path to good roses is in providing the proper conditions of good soil, light, water, and protection from pests. It sounds as if the plants you have are not growing vigorously if they have only grown an inch in 1 month. Particularly if the new growth is stunted looking or off color. The plants may need food, or more or less water. How often are you watering? A common problem on many ornamental plantings is actually overwatering. You could dig down a little bit near the plants to determine if the soil is either too dry or waterlogged underneath the surface. I would not water them every day, more like once or twice a week. Full sun is best, and fluffy, organic, well drained soil. Water deeply when you water.
If you are growing hybrid tea roses for cut flower use (the long-stemmed kind) you are pruning each time you harvest a flower. You should cut the stems of spent flowers back to about the second set of five leaves to get additional flowers. If you have the shrub rose type for garden bloom they require far less pruning. In this case you could go around and just remove spent flowers. Many varieties are "self cleaning" and require no extra pruning during the bloom time. Feel free to prune any time during the season for shaping. Prune them significantly (some would say prune them hard) in the early spring as they begin to leaf out, selecting 3-6 sturdy, fresh looking canes to keep. I cut them down to 6-12" tall and thin out all the old, dead looking canes and the thin, little stuff. then you will have lots of growth from the base.
In either case, try to get these plants growing more vigorously. Pruning is not an issue if the plants are happy. And yes, a good clipper is essential, but I have some pretty old pairs! I like the Felco 2's the best.
Reply:My advice at this stage would be to make sure they are getting sufficient water and wait until the next growth spurt.
Reply:Coffee grounds, egg shells, beer, and Miracle Grow. Really, beer. My roses love it. Good luck.
Reply:Your rose will recover just fine. It is important to prune a rose when it is dormant, just a few weeks to a month before it buds out in the spring. If you prune during summer or fall, it may start to grow again, but then the tender new growth may get damaged when frost comes.
I have all sorts of roses, and each type gets pruned differently. If your soil happens to be poor, or has disease in it, that can affect the rose too.
I do not believe in frequent fertilizer for roses. Wild roses do not get fertilized at all, except for leaves that fall, and the occassional animal that leaves a little pile behind. I give each rose bush a quart of well aged manure and a quart of garden compost each year. If you buy a box of some sort of organic fertilizer, and apply a cup or so of that twice a year, the plant will get a steady amount of nutrients. If you use pelletized, chemical fertilizer, only use the recommended amount as stated on the bag. Be aware, that type fertilizer is concentrated, and only provides a few nutrients, whereas manure and compost give all sorts of trace nutrients.
As for pruning, there are definate dos and don'ts.
Do prune after the plant loses it's leaves to frost. If your winters are very cold, wait until you start seeing tiny swellings on the stems before pruning. The way to prune varies depending on variety, but it sounds like your "friend" is not familiar with proper pruning techniques.
I highly recommend you read up on proper pruning, and you can get all sorts of great information here: http://www.rosemagazine.com/pages/prunin...
Reply:Wish I could see a picture!
Try watering deeply a couple times a week and application of a slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote, every month.
Roses are heavy feeders.
I would never wait 2 years to prune my rose, even a climber. Pruning encourages plant growth.
I have two moonlight gouramis, and the larger of the two keeps the smaller one cornered. How can I help?
My tank is a 46 gallon bow front, and I have also 5 neon tetras, two bleeding heart tetras and a pleco. The gouramis are approx. 2 1/2 and 3 inches long, and don't bother any of the other fish. Should I get one more gourami so they develop a 'pecking order'? The smaller fish will come out of the corner on occasion (especially to feed), but the larger one will see it and chase it back. I like the moonlights because they are beautiful fish, and I thought docile, but this is seeming to prove otherwise. Any ideas? My tank is planted, but they don't seem to hide in the plants.
I have two moonlight gouramis, and the larger of the two keeps the smaller one cornered. How can I help?
Can you rearrange the tank? Sometimes that helps. Adding another fish could work (be sure to rearrange when/if you do) or it could cause bigger problems. Using a stress coat regularly is a help to keeping the fish healthy, and whenever they get stressed, ie adding things (plants, fish or water) or moving things around in the tank. Try rearranging the tank first and see if that works. So long as the bully fish is not hurting the smaller fish I don't think you should worry too much. Sometimes, males in tanks fight, usually over females. Maybe getting a couple females in the tank would help (though I'm not sure how you tell). Good luck.
I have two moonlight gouramis, and the larger of the two keeps the smaller one cornered. How can I help?
Can you rearrange the tank? Sometimes that helps. Adding another fish could work (be sure to rearrange when/if you do) or it could cause bigger problems. Using a stress coat regularly is a help to keeping the fish healthy, and whenever they get stressed, ie adding things (plants, fish or water) or moving things around in the tank. Try rearranging the tank first and see if that works. So long as the bully fish is not hurting the smaller fish I don't think you should worry too much. Sometimes, males in tanks fight, usually over females. Maybe getting a couple females in the tank would help (though I'm not sure how you tell). Good luck.
My plants are turning yellow at the bottom and some are drying out on top yet I am watering them daily. Help!?
These are new flower beds. Dalhias, Day Lillies, Aisian Lillies, Miniature Hollihocks. Even some of my potted plants aren't quite as full as last year. I thought it might be the water, but, my house plants are doing fine. I put in bags of black dirt and cow manure before planting( one bag of manure for about a 5ftx5ftx5ft bed) The Hollihock was doing great until one day it started to wilt. I tried to dig it up to put it elsewhere and it didn't have a dirt ball at the roots but the roots looked good(no bugs) the Lillies all grew to about 5to6 inches and stopped growing. They didn't die, just quit growing. I am at a loss. Can anyone give me any ideas?
My plants are turning yellow at the bottom and some are drying out on top yet I am watering them daily. Help!?
even though they look like they are drying at the top, there is too much water. plants need to be able to look for water, or to reach for it, if you're watering them daily, the roots are constantly getting water, and are not thirsty and searching for water. water them a little less and see how that works, good luck!
Reply:You don't say how long you are watering. Everyone jumps to the conclusion that you are overwatering. If you are watering for example 5 minutes every day, that is not enough water to do any good. Water goes in a couple inches and then evaporates. Plants need a good soaking every few days in summer. For example, water for 20 minutes every 3 or 4 days. That way the roots will go down to get that water that has soaked in between waterings therefor making the plant more drought tolerant.
Good luck :-)
Reply:Sounds like you need to cull the beds, the area is probably too small for all the root systems. Then, again, you could have a rodent or insect problem depending on where you live, the situation of the garden, what the drainage is, etc.
Your dahlias and lillies all produce bulbs, etc. under ground... look at this first. Like house plants, garden beds can get root bound.
Reply:Dont water it everyday, that causes the yellowness. Try watering like 3 times a week. Maybe change the location also to change the amount of sunlight the plants recieve. Also aerate the soil if the plants stop growing, you can do this by rotating the soil or digging small holes in the soil to allow oxygen to go through into the ground and also to move the nutrients from above the ground to the below to reach the roots
good luck
Reply:My dear, the very simple answer is that your plants are gearing down for the fall. Dahlias and day lillies are bulbs and rhizomes. They are simply dying off for the year. Wait until they are dried up before you remove the dead foliage. The root reabsorbs the nutients from the foliage in order to over-winter, and sprout in the spring. Your hollyhocks are a perrenial. They are also slowing down for the fall. Cut them all the way down to about two inches from the ground. They will restart, but probably won't have time to flower again. Leave the new foliage on them over the winter. In the spring when they sprout new leaves, you can remove the old growth. Cut down on the water a bit (but don't stop watering them altogether!) and give them a dose of triple 16 fertilizer.
I don't know how "new" your flower beds are, but if you planted them recently, the lillies didn't have time to flower. Also, the varieties you mentioned often don't flower in their first year. Next year you should have lots of blooms. Both those varieties are very hardy and trouble free.
Reply:I would have to say over watering, too. You shouldn't have to water every day. A good soaking with the hose running directly into the bed under the leaves a couple times a week is best. The Dahlias should continue to bloom until frost--make sure you cut off the spent blooms. Hollihocks like it hot and dry in full sun. Plain old ordinary Day Lillies and Asian Lillie's only bloom once and the foliage does begin to fade and dry up. You should cut off the seed pods all the way to the bottom of the stems. If you have Stella Dora day lillies, if you keep the seed pods cut way back and the plants well watered, they should bloom again. Just keep digging in the dirt, don't give up, do some research into the environment each plant prefers. All of yours listed here do well in full sun. You might add some organic fertilizer to your beds next year when you plant--like Flowertone or Gardentone.
Reply:Sounds as though you are drowning them. Too much water can be as bad as too little water. Plus the soil may not be draining. Slow up on the watering a little and check to see if the water is standing for more than 24 hrs after you water them. That means the drainage is bad.
barber
My plants are turning yellow at the bottom and some are drying out on top yet I am watering them daily. Help!?
even though they look like they are drying at the top, there is too much water. plants need to be able to look for water, or to reach for it, if you're watering them daily, the roots are constantly getting water, and are not thirsty and searching for water. water them a little less and see how that works, good luck!
Reply:You don't say how long you are watering. Everyone jumps to the conclusion that you are overwatering. If you are watering for example 5 minutes every day, that is not enough water to do any good. Water goes in a couple inches and then evaporates. Plants need a good soaking every few days in summer. For example, water for 20 minutes every 3 or 4 days. That way the roots will go down to get that water that has soaked in between waterings therefor making the plant more drought tolerant.
Good luck :-)
Reply:Sounds like you need to cull the beds, the area is probably too small for all the root systems. Then, again, you could have a rodent or insect problem depending on where you live, the situation of the garden, what the drainage is, etc.
Your dahlias and lillies all produce bulbs, etc. under ground... look at this first. Like house plants, garden beds can get root bound.
Reply:Dont water it everyday, that causes the yellowness. Try watering like 3 times a week. Maybe change the location also to change the amount of sunlight the plants recieve. Also aerate the soil if the plants stop growing, you can do this by rotating the soil or digging small holes in the soil to allow oxygen to go through into the ground and also to move the nutrients from above the ground to the below to reach the roots
good luck
Reply:My dear, the very simple answer is that your plants are gearing down for the fall. Dahlias and day lillies are bulbs and rhizomes. They are simply dying off for the year. Wait until they are dried up before you remove the dead foliage. The root reabsorbs the nutients from the foliage in order to over-winter, and sprout in the spring. Your hollyhocks are a perrenial. They are also slowing down for the fall. Cut them all the way down to about two inches from the ground. They will restart, but probably won't have time to flower again. Leave the new foliage on them over the winter. In the spring when they sprout new leaves, you can remove the old growth. Cut down on the water a bit (but don't stop watering them altogether!) and give them a dose of triple 16 fertilizer.
I don't know how "new" your flower beds are, but if you planted them recently, the lillies didn't have time to flower. Also, the varieties you mentioned often don't flower in their first year. Next year you should have lots of blooms. Both those varieties are very hardy and trouble free.
Reply:I would have to say over watering, too. You shouldn't have to water every day. A good soaking with the hose running directly into the bed under the leaves a couple times a week is best. The Dahlias should continue to bloom until frost--make sure you cut off the spent blooms. Hollihocks like it hot and dry in full sun. Plain old ordinary Day Lillies and Asian Lillie's only bloom once and the foliage does begin to fade and dry up. You should cut off the seed pods all the way to the bottom of the stems. If you have Stella Dora day lillies, if you keep the seed pods cut way back and the plants well watered, they should bloom again. Just keep digging in the dirt, don't give up, do some research into the environment each plant prefers. All of yours listed here do well in full sun. You might add some organic fertilizer to your beds next year when you plant--like Flowertone or Gardentone.
Reply:Sounds as though you are drowning them. Too much water can be as bad as too little water. Plus the soil may not be draining. Slow up on the watering a little and check to see if the water is standing for more than 24 hrs after you water them. That means the drainage is bad.
barber
What kind of tropical houseplant do I have?? How should I care for it??
I have another houseplant that was given to me. I know it is tropical but I'm not sure of the specific name for it. It has thick stems and medium sized leaves (about 6 to 8 inches). They are a darker color of green on the edges of the leaf, and a yellowish green on the inner part of the leaf. I'm wondering what kind of tropical plant this is, and if there is any kind of special care it needs. Anybody familiar with this type of plant???
What kind of tropical houseplant do I have?? How should I care for it??
try hortiplex.com or Floridata.com for plant Id
sounds similar to family Dracena or family Ficus
Both require indirect lighting and moderate moisture
Reply:If it's possible (and the plant is small enough), try taking it to a garden specialty shop...it you can't do that, maybe take a leaf and take a picture of it on digital camera or cell phone so they can see it, but then have the leaf as a close up visual. :) ~Kendra Leigh Report It
Reply:I think (pardon my spelling) it's a spathphylum ( something to that effect.). Indirect sunlight. and plenty of water.
Reply:Could be a "corn plant" (Main stem is woody, about 3-4 inches in diameter. Care: regular watering (once a week) sparingly.
Reply:Go to www.houseplants-flower-online-caretips.c... This will hopefully help you with questions on what kind of plant you have and how to care for it. Good Luck!!
Reply:Sounds like a croton plant to me.
Check out this link, and if you find your plant here will you please let us know which one it is.
http://www.crotons.org/
Here is a webby on how to take care of croton plants.
http://www.heirloomgardenexperts.com/inf...
What kind of tropical houseplant do I have?? How should I care for it??
try hortiplex.com or Floridata.com for plant Id
sounds similar to family Dracena or family Ficus
Both require indirect lighting and moderate moisture
Reply:If it's possible (and the plant is small enough), try taking it to a garden specialty shop...it you can't do that, maybe take a leaf and take a picture of it on digital camera or cell phone so they can see it, but then have the leaf as a close up visual. :) ~Kendra Leigh Report It
Reply:I think (pardon my spelling) it's a spathphylum ( something to that effect.). Indirect sunlight. and plenty of water.
Reply:Could be a "corn plant" (Main stem is woody, about 3-4 inches in diameter. Care: regular watering (once a week) sparingly.
Reply:Go to www.houseplants-flower-online-caretips.c... This will hopefully help you with questions on what kind of plant you have and how to care for it. Good Luck!!
Reply:Sounds like a croton plant to me.
Check out this link, and if you find your plant here will you please let us know which one it is.
http://www.crotons.org/
Here is a webby on how to take care of croton plants.
http://www.heirloomgardenexperts.com/inf...
Can anyone identify the vine that grows from a 'fortune telling bean'?
My daughter bought a novelty plant in the spring, a bean in a can, when it sprouted it had a fortune on the 1st leaves. Her's said "Money, Money, Money". The bean was large and reddish brown, much like a large kidney bean, which I thought it was. The vine is now as tall as our 2 story house, growing up in trees, across fences, its crazy. It has medium sized purple flowers that look like a giant snap dragon or small orchid and is producing thick beans that are approx 12 inches in length that turn brown and have 8 or 10 red beans inside.
I have read doing an internet search, that the way to laser the "fortunes" on these 'fortune telling beans' were developed in Japan, and they were first marketed there, but I can't find any discription of the plant itself.
Before I pass these seeds on to friends and family, please help me find out what it is.
Can anyone identify the vine that grows from a 'fortune telling bean'?
It's most definitely NOT kudzu. I grew up around kudzu, and it is awful, but definitely not anything like a bean.
Here is the definitive answer:
You have a sword bean plant.
Detailed information on Sword Bean (Canavalia gladiata)
One vendor has this plant for sale.
Family: Papilionaceae (puh-pil-ee-uh-NAY-see-ee) (Info)
Genus: Canavalia (kan-uh-VAY-lee-uh) (Info)
Species: gladiata (glad-ee-AY-tuh) (Info)
Category:
Annuals
Vegetables
Groundcovers
Vines and Climbers
Height:
6-8 ft. (1.8-2.4 m)
20-30 ft. (6-9 m)
Spacing:
Unknown - Tell us
Hardiness:
USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4° C (15° F)
USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6° C (20° F)
USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8° C (25° F)
USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1°C (30° F)
USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7° C (35° F)
USDA Zone 11: above 4.5° C (40° F)
Sun Exposure:
Full Sun
Sun to Partial Shade
Danger:
Parts of plant are poisonous if ingested
Bloom Color:
Rose/Mauve
Violet/Lavender
Purple
Bloom Time:
Late Spring/Early Summer
Mid Summer
Blooms repeatedly
Foliage:
Herbaceous
Smooth-Textured
Other details:
Drought-tolerant; suitable for xeriscaping
Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater
Soil pH requirements:
5.6 to 6.0 (acidic)
6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)
6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)
7.6 to 7.8 (mildly alkaline)
Propagation Methods:
From seed; sow indoors before last frost
From seed; direct sow after last frost
From seed; germinate in a damp paper towel
Seed Collecting:
Allow pods to dry on plant; break open to collect seeds
Noun 1. sword bean - twining tropical Old World plant bearing long pods usually with red or brown beans; long cultivated in Orient for food
Canavalia gladiata
Canavalia, genus Canavalia - herbs or woody vines of mainly American tropics and subtropics
vine - weak-stemmed plant that derives support from climbing, twining, or creeping along a surface
Canavalia gladiata Elevation: up to 1,500m
Sword Bean MS, LL, RF, H
Uncooked seed is toxic at any stage, BUT young tender immature pods are edible after being boiled and water poured off. Do not eat in large quantities and do not eat mature seeds, even after boiling! Drought-tolerant, green manure; seeds germinate readily. Optimum growth occurs in full sunlight but sword beans are tolerant of some shade. Preferred environmental conditions are found in the humid lowland tropics but these beans may be grown with success in tropical elevations to 1,000 m (3,000 ft). Sword Bean thrives in tropical climates exhibiting moderately high temperature (15-30°C/59-86°F) environments. Sword Bean is tolerant of a wide range of rainfall conditions (from 700-4,200 mm or approximately 27-165 in). Sword Bean is well adapted to growth and survival in low-quality soils.
Soil pH: 4.3-7.5.
Reply:My best guess is that these are Kudzu vines--a very invasive pest originally from Japan. I do not recommend planting or growing these as they are so invasive.
Please see the below link for more information:
http://www.invasive.org/eastern/srs/K.ht...
Reply:I never heard of it,dig it up
Reply:try and join this yahoo group gardenmessenger they are very good and will answer all gardening questions - they also have a very good web-site http://www.gardenmessenger.net/
Reply:Cant the Fortune Cookie tell you? lol
Reply:I think what you got is this one:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/...
I have read doing an internet search, that the way to laser the "fortunes" on these 'fortune telling beans' were developed in Japan, and they were first marketed there, but I can't find any discription of the plant itself.
Before I pass these seeds on to friends and family, please help me find out what it is.
Can anyone identify the vine that grows from a 'fortune telling bean'?
It's most definitely NOT kudzu. I grew up around kudzu, and it is awful, but definitely not anything like a bean.
Here is the definitive answer:
You have a sword bean plant.
Detailed information on Sword Bean (Canavalia gladiata)
One vendor has this plant for sale.
Family: Papilionaceae (puh-pil-ee-uh-NAY-see-ee) (Info)
Genus: Canavalia (kan-uh-VAY-lee-uh) (Info)
Species: gladiata (glad-ee-AY-tuh) (Info)
Category:
Annuals
Vegetables
Groundcovers
Vines and Climbers
Height:
6-8 ft. (1.8-2.4 m)
20-30 ft. (6-9 m)
Spacing:
Unknown - Tell us
Hardiness:
USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4° C (15° F)
USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6° C (20° F)
USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8° C (25° F)
USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1°C (30° F)
USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7° C (35° F)
USDA Zone 11: above 4.5° C (40° F)
Sun Exposure:
Full Sun
Sun to Partial Shade
Danger:
Parts of plant are poisonous if ingested
Bloom Color:
Rose/Mauve
Violet/Lavender
Purple
Bloom Time:
Late Spring/Early Summer
Mid Summer
Blooms repeatedly
Foliage:
Herbaceous
Smooth-Textured
Other details:
Drought-tolerant; suitable for xeriscaping
Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater
Soil pH requirements:
5.6 to 6.0 (acidic)
6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)
6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)
7.6 to 7.8 (mildly alkaline)
Propagation Methods:
From seed; sow indoors before last frost
From seed; direct sow after last frost
From seed; germinate in a damp paper towel
Seed Collecting:
Allow pods to dry on plant; break open to collect seeds
Noun 1. sword bean - twining tropical Old World plant bearing long pods usually with red or brown beans; long cultivated in Orient for food
Canavalia gladiata
Canavalia, genus Canavalia - herbs or woody vines of mainly American tropics and subtropics
vine - weak-stemmed plant that derives support from climbing, twining, or creeping along a surface
Canavalia gladiata Elevation: up to 1,500m
Sword Bean MS, LL, RF, H
Uncooked seed is toxic at any stage, BUT young tender immature pods are edible after being boiled and water poured off. Do not eat in large quantities and do not eat mature seeds, even after boiling! Drought-tolerant, green manure; seeds germinate readily. Optimum growth occurs in full sunlight but sword beans are tolerant of some shade. Preferred environmental conditions are found in the humid lowland tropics but these beans may be grown with success in tropical elevations to 1,000 m (3,000 ft). Sword Bean thrives in tropical climates exhibiting moderately high temperature (15-30°C/59-86°F) environments. Sword Bean is tolerant of a wide range of rainfall conditions (from 700-4,200 mm or approximately 27-165 in). Sword Bean is well adapted to growth and survival in low-quality soils.
Soil pH: 4.3-7.5.
Reply:My best guess is that these are Kudzu vines--a very invasive pest originally from Japan. I do not recommend planting or growing these as they are so invasive.
Please see the below link for more information:
http://www.invasive.org/eastern/srs/K.ht...
Reply:I never heard of it,dig it up
Reply:try and join this yahoo group gardenmessenger they are very good and will answer all gardening questions - they also have a very good web-site http://www.gardenmessenger.net/
Reply:Cant the Fortune Cookie tell you? lol
Reply:I think what you got is this one:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/...
Another day at the plant.?
I was a supervisor working at a power plant. One day, on my rounds, I walked outside, looked at the three inches of freshly fallen snow, and then I noticed some wheel tracks going up to the walk-in doors on one side of the building. The building has six small walk-in doors and two large roll up doors. Curious, I went around to the other side, and there was wheel tracks going up to those walk-in doors. Checking a bit more, I found wheel tracks going to all the walk-in doors, and I wondered what was going on. I see one of my workers wandering around I and ask him. He says he was trying to get the two wheeled wheel barrow inside to do some work, and couldn’t get it through the doors.
I said, “don’t you know that all the walk-in doors are the same size, so if it didn’t go through one of them, it wouldn’t go through any of them.? And besides, the big roll up doors can be opened and you can bring it in that way”. He looked at me kind of weird and said, “Oh, yeah, guess I could have.”
Another day at the plant.?
True sometimes we all do foolish things, other day I was talking on my mobile, sametime I was searching for it in all the pockets!!!
Reply:sorry couldn't see the funny side of that one
Reply:i think it is time to hire some new help at the plant
Reply:what's this?
I said, “don’t you know that all the walk-in doors are the same size, so if it didn’t go through one of them, it wouldn’t go through any of them.? And besides, the big roll up doors can be opened and you can bring it in that way”. He looked at me kind of weird and said, “Oh, yeah, guess I could have.”
Another day at the plant.?
True sometimes we all do foolish things, other day I was talking on my mobile, sametime I was searching for it in all the pockets!!!
Reply:sorry couldn't see the funny side of that one
Reply:i think it is time to hire some new help at the plant
Reply:what's this?
How do I take care of sliver maple tree seedlings?
I have silver maple trees that I have planted in pots. I need to know how to take care of them and when I can transplant them. They are about 3 inches tall. I live in northern Wisconsin. Do I take them in before winter or what. Please help.
How do I take care of sliver maple tree seedlings?
Leave them outside. In nature they make it through the winter don't they? Does put a thick layer of mulch around them.
Reply:I don't know but they both sound sweet cool names for a tree!!!!
Reply:This fall when the trees go dormant you can transplant.Be sure to use mulch.
Reply:jack off on them freeze them until you need them
rene
How do I take care of sliver maple tree seedlings?
Leave them outside. In nature they make it through the winter don't they? Does put a thick layer of mulch around them.
Reply:I don't know but they both sound sweet cool names for a tree!!!!
Reply:This fall when the trees go dormant you can transplant.Be sure to use mulch.
Reply:jack off on them freeze them until you need them
rene
When do I transplant my sprouting acorns?
I planted some acorns that had started sprouting while they lay on the ground. The baby trees are 5-6 inches tall now. How large should they be before I can put them into a larger container? I don't want to damage the roots. They are close together in one pot now, a total of 3 small trees.
When do I transplant my sprouting acorns?
transplant them right away but be sure to mark the north side of the tree and plant it with that mark facing north---ugru
Reply:Get them separated now
When do I transplant my sprouting acorns?
transplant them right away but be sure to mark the north side of the tree and plant it with that mark facing north---ugru
Reply:Get them separated now
What should I plant between Daffodils?
So this is my first year gardening and I have no clue what I'm doing. In the fall I planted Daffodil bulbs which are now coming up and flowering. When I planted them I followed the instructions and left a couple of inches between each one. I wasn't giving much thought to what it would look like. Now there is so much space between each one, and all my neighbors have beautiful bunches of flowers.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w249/...
So any suggestions for what to plant in between? Can I put some pansies in?
What should I plant between Daffodils?
Congratulations, they are beautiful! You have a green thumb and don't know it.
As soon as the flowers die, cut ONLY the flower and its stem off the plant. Keep the leaves. They are feeding the bulb which needs food to return next year. The leaves will die off after a while and then you can cut them too.
Meanwhile, think of what you would like to plant in between the daffs that will bloom in the summer. I like annuals. Annuals have to be planted each summer. They do not come back on their own the way the daffs will. There are gobs and gobs of annuals that are bright and colorfull. Send for a couple of free gardening catalogs that will give you a description of each plant and how to grow them. Here are two that you can send for:
http://parkseed.com
http://burpee.com
*************************************
You are gonna love gardening, don't try to do it all in one year. Get to know where the sun shines the most, and where the shaded areas are. Because you will need flowers for the sun areas, and flowers for the shaded areas.
Since you are a beginner, this year start your garden with plants that you get from a garden center or nursery. They are called bedding plants and come in a six pack. Look for a little tag sticking in the six pact showing directions on how to grow the plants. If the tag is not there, ask for one or buy something else. Directions are VERY important.
Seeds are not always easy to grow. And wildflowers are the hardest so don't be disappointed if they don't show up.
Two good things to do for yourself is to call your local County Extension Service and ask for all the information that they have about gardening in your area. They usually have a packet/kit of things for the home gardener.
And number two would be to pick up a couple of beginner books. You really do need to know about soil, compost, mulch and etc.
To keep from over watering or not watering enough, buy a water analyzer from a nursery or garden center. Be sure to read the directions. This will be one of your best tools.
Send for some free gardening catalogs and get use to the different types of plants, colors, and when to plant. They are filled with good informtion and pictures. And they will keep you company during the long winter months. Here is a list of just a very few. There are hundreds more:
http://www.waysidegardens.com
http://www.dutchbulbs.com
http://www.jacksonandperkins.com (Roses)
http://www.parkseed.com
http://www.burpee.com
Other catalogs:
http://www.leevalley.com
http://www.gardeners.com
http://www.GardensAlive.com
http://www.deerbusters.com (all types of animal control)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Container/pots/window boxes needs:
All need holes in the bottem for water drainage,
Potting soil that comes in bags,
Slow release fertilizer for flowers (not for green plants), OR liquid fertilizer that will need to be used more often-read directions,
Water crystals to be mixed into the soil for holding water,
Bedding plants or full grown plants.
Here is an excellent link to check out for color combinations and plants that look good together:
http://www.fernlea.com/awesomeaccents/re...
Reply:yeah u could grow pansies, but i would say crocuses. they are very beautiful and come in different colors. they are so hardy that they even grow through snow!
they usually grow up to 5-6 inches
this is a map of your hardiness zone: http://www.growit.com/bin/USDAZoneMaps.e...
you can purchase crocuses from walmart, nurseries, or go to brecks.com, springhillnursery.com, naturehills.com
theses r some pics:http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=h...
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=h...
http://images.google.com/images?hl=en%26amp;q=...
Reply:the space between your daffies will disappear as they grow older and have a chance to make new bulbs.... more flowers will show up every year!!..... so rather than plant something between them, plant something taller behind them or shorter, infront of them.... I like your pansy idea ..... gardening is a lot of planning, but it's also a lot of experimenting..... plant something... if you don't like it, change it.... if it don't grow, figger out why and adapt ..........mostly, have fun out there!....
Reply:Pansy's would work, in my opinion. At the zoo and gardens here, they had some tulips planted like you have your daffodils, and they had what looked like pansy's all over the area around them. It looked really good.
Reply:Something tall and purple or blue. I wouldn't go pansies - I'd go for something taller.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w249/...
So any suggestions for what to plant in between? Can I put some pansies in?
What should I plant between Daffodils?
Congratulations, they are beautiful! You have a green thumb and don't know it.
As soon as the flowers die, cut ONLY the flower and its stem off the plant. Keep the leaves. They are feeding the bulb which needs food to return next year. The leaves will die off after a while and then you can cut them too.
Meanwhile, think of what you would like to plant in between the daffs that will bloom in the summer. I like annuals. Annuals have to be planted each summer. They do not come back on their own the way the daffs will. There are gobs and gobs of annuals that are bright and colorfull. Send for a couple of free gardening catalogs that will give you a description of each plant and how to grow them. Here are two that you can send for:
http://parkseed.com
http://burpee.com
*************************************
You are gonna love gardening, don't try to do it all in one year. Get to know where the sun shines the most, and where the shaded areas are. Because you will need flowers for the sun areas, and flowers for the shaded areas.
Since you are a beginner, this year start your garden with plants that you get from a garden center or nursery. They are called bedding plants and come in a six pack. Look for a little tag sticking in the six pact showing directions on how to grow the plants. If the tag is not there, ask for one or buy something else. Directions are VERY important.
Seeds are not always easy to grow. And wildflowers are the hardest so don't be disappointed if they don't show up.
Two good things to do for yourself is to call your local County Extension Service and ask for all the information that they have about gardening in your area. They usually have a packet/kit of things for the home gardener.
And number two would be to pick up a couple of beginner books. You really do need to know about soil, compost, mulch and etc.
To keep from over watering or not watering enough, buy a water analyzer from a nursery or garden center. Be sure to read the directions. This will be one of your best tools.
Send for some free gardening catalogs and get use to the different types of plants, colors, and when to plant. They are filled with good informtion and pictures. And they will keep you company during the long winter months. Here is a list of just a very few. There are hundreds more:
http://www.waysidegardens.com
http://www.dutchbulbs.com
http://www.jacksonandperkins.com (Roses)
http://www.parkseed.com
http://www.burpee.com
Other catalogs:
http://www.leevalley.com
http://www.gardeners.com
http://www.GardensAlive.com
http://www.deerbusters.com (all types of animal control)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Container/pots/window boxes needs:
All need holes in the bottem for water drainage,
Potting soil that comes in bags,
Slow release fertilizer for flowers (not for green plants), OR liquid fertilizer that will need to be used more often-read directions,
Water crystals to be mixed into the soil for holding water,
Bedding plants or full grown plants.
Here is an excellent link to check out for color combinations and plants that look good together:
http://www.fernlea.com/awesomeaccents/re...
Reply:yeah u could grow pansies, but i would say crocuses. they are very beautiful and come in different colors. they are so hardy that they even grow through snow!
they usually grow up to 5-6 inches
this is a map of your hardiness zone: http://www.growit.com/bin/USDAZoneMaps.e...
you can purchase crocuses from walmart, nurseries, or go to brecks.com, springhillnursery.com, naturehills.com
theses r some pics:http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=h...
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=h...
http://images.google.com/images?hl=en%26amp;q=...
Reply:the space between your daffies will disappear as they grow older and have a chance to make new bulbs.... more flowers will show up every year!!..... so rather than plant something between them, plant something taller behind them or shorter, infront of them.... I like your pansy idea ..... gardening is a lot of planning, but it's also a lot of experimenting..... plant something... if you don't like it, change it.... if it don't grow, figger out why and adapt ..........mostly, have fun out there!....
Reply:Pansy's would work, in my opinion. At the zoo and gardens here, they had some tulips planted like you have your daffodils, and they had what looked like pansy's all over the area around them. It looked really good.
Reply:Something tall and purple or blue. I wouldn't go pansies - I'd go for something taller.
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